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The Average Climber Podcast
Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast
172 episodes
19 hours ago
A podcast for the average rock climber presenting training and nutrition advice with healthy side of FUN. Hosted by Coach and Trainer, Lauren Abernathy and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn, stay for the antics. You‘re in for a good time.
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Health & Fitness
Sports,
Wilderness
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All content for The Average Climber Podcast is the property of Plug Tone Audio | The Average Climber Podcast and is served directly from their servers with no modification, redirects, or rehosting. The podcast is not affiliated with or endorsed by Podjoint in any way.
A podcast for the average rock climber presenting training and nutrition advice with healthy side of FUN. Hosted by Coach and Trainer, Lauren Abernathy and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn, stay for the antics. You‘re in for a good time.
Show more...
Health & Fitness
Sports,
Wilderness
Episodes (20/172)
The Average Climber Podcast
Top 3 Holiday Training Tips
For many climbers - the holiday season means more on our plates. More gatherings, more to-dos, more hosting, perhaps more tough feelings, and less time for training. So in this episode we're giving you our top 3 tips for navigating the holiday season with intention and bad-assery.⚠️ P.S. We're releasing this episode NOW.... because 3 days before December starts is *probably* too late! LINKS: APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovBook an Intro Call with Caitlin!https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798 Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25GET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7 RESOURCES:Lauren's Favorite Kettlebell Complexes:- Turkish Get Up 3 Press Complex (advanced)https://youtu.be/6jq88rJmFSY - Swing Press Lungehttps://youtu.be/_kLI-IOL0YQ - Tres-Cinco Complexhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBION5kQhJ8IG REEL - V Point Session 101https://www.instagram.com/reel/DNn-rKvvMYy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== De-training research: https://www.strongerbyscience.com/research-spotlight-detraining/https://www.strongerbyscience.com/detraining/  
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19 hours ago
23 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
Ep. 84: The Rules you Can Break in your Training and Nutrition
Rules can make decisions easier. Rules can keep you safe. But rules can also be so rigid that you leave progress on the table. In this episode we're showing you which rules you can break, and why. From performance seasons, to food morality, and when to do what training sessions - if you get worried about doing things "right", this episode is about to bring you some serious relief.LINKS: APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovBook an Intro Call with Caitlin!https://my.practicebetter.io/#/5ee7f9332a982306fcce6ca4/bookings?s=660ad849d02bd34a38dcf798 Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25GET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
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1 week ago
1 hour 9 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
Four Signs it's Time to Pivot
If climbing has been feeling a like a box cheez-its that have been in the pantry too long - this episode is for you. Because having a stale relationship with climbing - well, it could be better, ya know? So in this episode we're breaking down four signs that it might be time to pivot your approach. If this title jumped out at you - that's your first sign that you need to give this a listen.  APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnov Join Caitlin's Newsletter https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
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2 weeks ago
23 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
Ep 83: All things granite with Kris Hampton, "granite is a rental car"
Granite has shaped climbing history — from Yosemite to crags around the world. In this episode, we’re joined by coach Kris Hampton of the Power Company Podcast to unpack why granite feels so damn hard, how to get better at it, and what makes it such a cornerstone of climbing.  LINKS + RESOURCES:Granite Edge from Nature Climbinghttps://natureclimbing.com/products/stone-hanger-1?srsltid=AfmBOooMlRoLZuMOTsK6t58u95nNftWMPsn35bbkfmw8g9marvDiJvKy Footholds - Resistorshttps://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/store/p/resistors?aff=11 Check out Kris and the Power Company Teamwww.powercompanyclimbing.com For more information on hangboarding, check out episodes 13 & 14 of this podcast._____ Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7  
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3 weeks ago
1 hour 24 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
Stop Bonking: Using Micro-fueling for Steady Energy
If eating a whole meal at the crag isn't your style, or you feel like energy during big climbing sessions really starts to slip, then you need to listen up.In this episode, we're giving you a bite-sized lesson in micro-fueling. BON APPETIT! 🤌🏻 Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Get on the wait list for The Crew!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/crew-wait-list-november-25 APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
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4 weeks ago
18 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
Ep 82: How to Solo Boulder Outside with Chelsea Murn
Chelsea Murn is no stranger to solo bouldering. In fact, she was alone in the woods for many of the hardest boulders she's ever done (and she's racked up a few V10s in her day). Many climbers struggle to get outdoors as often as they'd like - and part of that struggle comes from coordinating with climbing partners. Enter - SOLO BOULDERING. In this episode we cover- the risks you take when bouldering by yourself- building self-trust- Chelsea's favorite gear recs- and more!RESOURCES: - Chelsea loves Organic Pads https://organicclimbing.com/collections/crash-pads- Lauren + Caitlin are big fans of Send!https://www.sendclimbing.com/collections/crash-padsChelsea on Pretty Hate Machine https://www.instagram.com/p/DB2EAKUTNcI/?img_index=3&igsh=aGZqd3l5MW50ODh2   _______________________________ Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
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1 month ago
1 hour 9 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
CASE STUDY: Climbing V9 through Chronic Illness
We've got a NEW episode style for you - case studies! Where we talk about real clients making real progress. This week we're talking about Caitlin's client, who was suffering with ulcerative colitis (if you aren't familiar with it - think EXTREME inflammatory gut problems). We discuss:- how Caitlin helped Jack reintroduce foods back into his diet- getting Jack enough energy to be able to train and climb outside again- how he healed, recovered and climbed his second V9! Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover APPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
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1 month ago
33 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
ep 81. Weekend Warrior Survival Guide - part 2.
Welcome to part 2 of the weekend warrior survival guide. We're bringing you more nutrition planning tips that will blow your mind AND discussing the trap of "fun". RESOURCES: How to set climbing trip goals without losing your mind!https://youtu.be/2PSfLEgiBlE Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signupAPPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7    
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1 month ago
45 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
Setting Outdoor Climbing Goals (No Grade Chasing Required)
You don't have to have a mega-proj and break into a new grade every season. You can have different goals. You can have goals for your nutrition. In this episode we're showing you how to spice up your outdoor climbing with goals that will make you better (and help you have more FUN too).*P.S. I realized we said "raw egg" in this story, but let it be known that it was in fact a hard boiled egg. Our apologies 🤣Join Lauren's Newsletterhttps://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signupAPPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7
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1 month ago
29 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
ep. 80: The Weekend Warrior's Survival Guide - part 1
THE BITCHES ARE BACK. 🎉We are so excited to kick off September with you - and we know you've got crunchy leaves and crispy temps on the brain. It's about to be weekend climbing trip o'clock and we want you to be ready.In part 1 of our weekend warrior's survival guide, we're teaching you...> what you CAN train last-minute vs. what you can't> changing the way you view your nutrition on a weekend climbing trip (your mind will be BLOWN) > the *smart* way to flip the switch from indoor mode to your weekend warrior eraAnd so much more.LINKS:  JOIN THE CREWwww.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew last day to enroll for September is 9/7!Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signupAPPLY FOR 1:1 COACHING WITH LAURENhttps://usv2nrx1n1p.typeform.com/to/vFaAWnovGET YOUR STICKERhttps://forms.gle/qDenGJTAd5Qmspyz7    
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2 months ago
1 hour 1 minute

The Average Climber Podcast
SENDTEMBER EP 4: "Hold the rope"
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 4. This series is meant to be listened to IN ORDER. So go back to episode 1!___________________________________________________________________________ In the final episode of this series, we're getting practical. I'm taking you through the top four mistakes climbers make on short, weekend climbing trips. This episode is all about maximizing your time outside. We're talking onsight tactics, improving your weekend schedule and more.  RESOURCES:Second Try Sending LINKS:1. Apply for 1:1 coaching!  2. Join the wait list for The Crew! FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:Play nutrition bingoAll of Caitlin's links here!
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3 months ago
36 minutes 32 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
SENDTEMBER EP 3: "He'll start at his shoe for an hour"
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 3. This series is meant to be listened to IN ORDER. So go back to episode 1!___________________________________________________________________________ In episode 3 we're highlighting the mental struggles of outdoor climbing. From failure to comparison to not freaking out and "yelling take" - if you fee like your brain is getting in your way instead of helping you along, this episode is for you.Stay tuned for episode 4, where I'll be teaching you my favorite climbing trip tactics! LINKS:1. Apply for 1:1 coaching!  2. Join the wait list for The Crew! 3. Check out Lor's IG post on when to say "take" 4. Learn more about my friend and colleague, Karly Rager from Project Direct! FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:Play nutrition bingoAll of Caitlin's links here!
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3 months ago
34 minutes 56 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
SENDTEMBER EP 2: "Do not hang your heads"
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 2. If you haven't listened to episode 1 yet - go back and start at the beginning.___________________________________________________________________________Welcome to episode 2, where I'm walking you through the 7 step process of sending a limit level sport climb. (and some things to keep in mind before you dig in) In episode 3, we'll be digging into mental game + tactics for short climbing trips.LINKS:1. Apply for 1:1 coaching!  2. Join the wait list for The Crew! 3. Project checklist example 4. Power Company Remix Episode on Failure 5. Low Pointing ResourcesSHORT VIDEOLow pointing Q&A pt 1Low pointing Q&A pt 2FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:Play nutrition bingoAll of Caitlin's links here!
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3 months ago
38 minutes 14 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
SENDTEMBER EP 1: What it takes to win a game
🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 1. What it takes to win a game. ______________ Welcome to episode 1 of the Sendtember Podcast. We're kicking off this 4 part series with the foundations of 5.12 climbing. We discuss- physical metrics of climbers who are redpointing 5.12 and beyond- how to be more intentional with the time you have outsideStay tuned for episode 2, where we'll be digging into the details of the process of projecting. SENDSGIVING, IS IT COMING BACK? While the Sendsgiving Program is presently retired, I do have a couple 1:1 coaching spots available for start dates in July and August. You can apply for 1:1 coaching here. LINKS:  1. 1:1 Coaching application. 2. Endurance Training + Work Capacity 101: Average Climber Podcast Episode 32 3. Power Company Climbing Data 4. Power Company Climbing Finger vs. Pull Strength Heat Map
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3 months ago
28 minutes 18 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
Sends and Suffers: Ep 85 Coaching Youth Insights and Experience Sharing with Mario Stanley and Dru Stulb
We're on break but that doesn't mean we don't have things we want to share with you.This week we're highlighting a fellow PlugToner, Mario Stanley. Mario is the host and creator of the Sends and Suffers Podcast.  A renaissance man through and through, he is a climber, coach, filmmaker, podcaster, former route setter, advocate for making climbing accessible to all, and so much more. We're thrilled to highlight this episode of Sends and Suffers in our feed.ABOUT THE EPISODE: Join us in a conversation with Houston-based coach, Dru Stulb, in this episode of Sends and Suffers. Host Mario Stanley and Dru discuss climbing evolution, coaching, and personal growth. Learn about Dru's journey from enthusiast to coach, the role of climbing coaches, and their impact on the sport. Discover the joys of coaching, challenges faced, and the rewards of seeing athletes grow. We also discuss the socio-economic challenges facing aspiring climbers, personal struggles, and the role of coaches in shaping expectations and growth. Finally, learn about unique teaching methods, understanding individual goals, and the power of a transformative community in sport. This episode is a deep dive into the heart of coaching and its influence on shaping the future of climbing culture.
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4 months ago
1 hour 12 minutes 14 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
SUMMER BREAK + CREW ANNOUNCEMENT
We're taking a break! See you back here in August!EPISODE TOPIC REQUEST FORMhttps://forms.gle/GAinnha1sG8EveUB9   LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CREWwww.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew last day to enroll for July is 6/27!Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup
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4 months ago
3 minutes 9 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
Battling the pump, combining physical and mental training
"If I train my endurance enough, I'll never get pumped and I'll never fall" If that's the way you're approaching your endurance training, this episode is for you. Improving your pumpy climbing abilities has a lot to do with A. your forearm endurance and B. how well you can keep your cool when the pump sets in. In this episode, we're taking you through a training progression to help you with both the mental and physical aspects of endurance. Get ready for some sweaty palms and bricked forearms!RESOURCES:  IG reel showing what "level 2" looks like::https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsJ7EsAgptQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MW81aDByZW1jdWowbg==Rhythm intervals by Climb Stronghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arH2ouVoaGs CAMPUS PUNKS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZexnS9lLdRwWRIST ROLLER EXAMPLE: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ubHDHIHI1EI WORK WITH US: PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up)Apply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com  
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4 months ago
22 minutes 44 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
ep 79: SIX KILLER TIPS, how we've changed our minds about habit formation, behavior change and goal setting
Want to eat better? You have to change your behavior. Follow a training plan? Gotta change your behavior. Stick to a stretching routine? You guessed it - BEHAVIOR CHANGE. Changing your behavior is the root of everything you want to accomplish. In this episode, we're giving you six killer tips (beyond "Atomic Habits" stuff) to help you change your behaviors for the better. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up)Apply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.comRESOURCES + CREATORS TO FOLLOW: Read Wendy Wood's review on The Psychology of HabitCTFAR MODEL (credit: Brooke Castillo + BBA Team for showing me this model!)@karinnordinphd@jime.ramirez.coachingRESOURCES FOR COACHES:Health Mindset Coaching CertificationCoach Shannon BeerBody Brain Alliance Coach Mentorship
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5 months ago
1 hour 10 minutes

The Average Climber Podcast
What Climbers get wrong about core training with Evan Ingerson DPT
Dr. Evan Ingerson is back and this time we're tackling CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS. Get the perspective of a physical therapist (Evan) and a coach (Lauren) as they dissect the big questions of core training like...- Should your core training be climbing specific?- How can you tell if your core is "low hanging fruit"?- What are the most common core training mistakes climbers make?We're covering all that and more - core up and tune in.WORK WITH EVAN:www.theclimbingproject.comEmail him: evan@rockrehab.coBunkie test: https://youtu.be/nMWiRSh7VhUEvan's favorite core exercises: https://youtu.be/jUVkrwxfQ9E ADDITIONAL LINKS:PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLINApply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewIf you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com
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5 months ago
48 minutes 3 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
Ep 78: Should you climb with pain? How to do it and when to get help with DPT Evan Ingerson
Should you take a week off or keep climbing on that tweaky finger? If a move makes your shoulder hurt a LOT but it feels fine 5 minutes later, what does that mean? If injury and pain feel confusing (or frustrating) to you - which is understandable - this episode with Climbing DPT Evan Ingerson is right up your alley. He has been working with climbers for 9+ years, climbing for 25 years, and was a multi-year youth national competitor. We are so excited to bring Evan’s expertise and impeccable bedside manner to the Average Climber Pod.WORK WITH EVAN:https://rockrehab.co/aboutEmail him: evan@rockrehab.co Ted Talk on chronic pain as recommended by Evan: https://youtu.be/gwd-wLdIHjs?si=nd5bmtzquVdLWIjXPLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLINApply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com
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5 months ago
1 hour 4 minutes 54 seconds

The Average Climber Podcast
A podcast for the average rock climber presenting training and nutrition advice with healthy side of FUN. Hosted by Coach and Trainer, Lauren Abernathy and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn, stay for the antics. You‘re in for a good time.