In July 2021 I started an ambitious project to document a-year-in-the-life of Westcombe Dairy.
It was a timely partnership as it coincided with a big push at Westcombe Dairy to take their regenerative farming to the next level. It also became a great opportunity to stop and consider all the changes that they've brought about at the dairy in the past years, from pasture-led grazing to the development of their charcuterie and the work they've done on the farm to improve resilience and diversity.
I visited Westcombe once a month, focusing on a different aspect of what they do on each visit. Through the lens of Westcombe Dairy we are able to look at how dairy farming is changing here in the UK and how one cheesemaker is making changes on their farm in search of a more harmonious nature with nature and ultimately an even more delicious cheese.
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In July 2021 I started an ambitious project to document a-year-in-the-life of Westcombe Dairy.
It was a timely partnership as it coincided with a big push at Westcombe Dairy to take their regenerative farming to the next level. It also became a great opportunity to stop and consider all the changes that they've brought about at the dairy in the past years, from pasture-led grazing to the development of their charcuterie and the work they've done on the farm to improve resilience and diversity.
I visited Westcombe once a month, focusing on a different aspect of what they do on each visit. Through the lens of Westcombe Dairy we are able to look at how dairy farming is changing here in the UK and how one cheesemaker is making changes on their farm in search of a more harmonious nature with nature and ultimately an even more delicious cheese.
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EMERGENCY PODCAST
An all new chat with Tom Calver in which I hear first hand what it was like to be at the centre of the Cheddar Scam storm that enveloped British Cheese just a few weeks ago. We talk about the real impact of a crime like this and how in a very weird way it’s a compliment to Farmhouse Cheddar!
We also talk about the budget and specifically the changes to IHT that have formed the backbone of the recent farming protests in central London. This was recorded a couple of weeks ago and so the story has evolved a bit since we discussed it but ultimately it’s an issue that proving very divisive and one that I don’t think is dropping g out of the conversation any time soon.
We also talk briefly about lard, slurry and Alpine cheese…
As always thank you for listening to The Westcombe Project and please do rate and review on your favourite pod app.
Cheers.
PS some articles
here’s a cracking piece all about the cheddar scam and why high end food is finding its way onto the black market
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/crmz42pjpnjo.amp
an excellent analysis of the impact of the budget on farmers by James Rebanks
https://unherd.com/2024/11/a-farmers-revolt-is-coming/
The article in The Financial Times all about Lard
https://www.ft.com/content/47a70eb9-4a25-4209-aab6-3acc38e10b9b
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EPISODE TWELVE – THE FINAL VISIT
For this last episode of The Westcombe Project Sam heads to Westcombe Dairy to recap and reflect on everything he’s seen, heard and learnt on his visits here to Westcombe. We look back across the series and look forward to what the future holds for Westcombe Dairy...
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EPISODE ELEVEN – LANDRACE
It's May 2002 and Westcombe is lush and green. The cows are out on pasture, but for this episode we head into Bath to Landrace Upstairs to discuss grain, herbs, flowers and the wider Westcombe family, with Andrew Lowkes, Mel Calver and Nick Millard.
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EPISODE TEN – MANAGING THE TRANSITION
It’s out under blue skies in April 2022 as Sam returns to Westcombe and we discuss the realities of the new grazing systems. As the tracks start to go down at Manor Farm, it's not all plain sailing. Richard, Nick, Tom and Sam revisit Manor herdsman Raymond.
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EPISODE NINE – THE DIVERSITY OF FARMING
With spring in the air, Sam joins Tom, Richard and Nick back on the farm to discuss the grazing paddocks, herbal leys and planting of fruit and nut trees. We also talk bio digesters, slurry, fuel prices, the role of the farmer as custodians of the land, and much more!
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EPISODE EIGHT – WESTCOMBE CHARCUTERIE
February 2022, and we look beyond cheese to talk about Westcombe Charcuterie. Paul and Tom sit down with Sam to discuss recent adventures in charcuterie making, and all that encompasses. This one’s longer than usual, but there was a lot to talk about!
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EPISODE SEVEN – IN THE DAIRY, PART II
It’s the depths of winter for Sam’s January visit, but its nice and warm in the dairy, with some physical cheddaring of the slabs to raise temperatures. Rob Howard discusses his instinctive cheesemaking approach, historical makes and the importance of lard.
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EPISODE SIX – CHEESE SELECTING & SELLING
Sam joins us as the Neal's Yard Dairy team visit to make their selection for the coming months. Sam then spends time with David Lockwood, Neal's Yard MD, to discuss Westcombe, its farming practices and the importance of telling the stories behind cheese.
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EPISODE FIVE – WORKING WITH COWS
In this November 2021 episode Sam is back at Manor Farm to discuss all things cows. We cover some of the harsh realities of dairy farming, from TB and testing regimes to fertility and the success (or otherwise) of the breeding programme here at Westcombe.
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EPISODE FOUR – IN THE DAIRY, PART I
In this October 2021’s episode, Sam is in the dairy with head cheesemaker Rob Howard to experience Westcombe Dairy cheesemaking first hand. We discuss cheesemaking approaches, techniques, microbes and historic Cheddar making.
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EPISODE THREE – MILK & MILKING
It’s September 2021 and Sam is back at Westcombe to herald the start of autumn …and we're finally talking milk. Sam joins Nick and the cows at Milton Farm to experience a milking session and we discuss the concept (and complexities) of "quality" milk.
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EPISODE TWO – SOMERSET HERDSMEN
August 2021, and Sam heads out with Richard Calver on his early morning rounds, taking in Manor Farm and meeting herdsman Raymond. This episode is about the challenges of persuading a diverse range of people to follow the same path to reach the same goal.
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EPISODE ONE – DAIRY FARM LIFE
It was July 2021 when Sam Wilkin aka Cellarman Sam first visited Westcombe. Richard and Tom Calver took Sam to Milton farm to meet herdsman Nick Millard. We discuss all things grazing, herbal leys, the benefits of a pasture-led dairy system and how it just might lead to a more delicious cheese.
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