Intro:Welcome to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host, Greg Keenan. Today, we’re diving deep into one of the most common—and costly—mistakes anglers make on stillwaters: overcasting. Not only does it spook fish and waste energy, but it’s also one of the fastest ways to miss feedback and kill your confidence on the water. I’ll walk you through how to recognize it, why it happens, and exactly how to fix it with smarter, more intentional casts. What You’ll Learn in This Episode: What overcasting actually is (and why it’s not about distance) How casting too frequently kills your chances Why casting without feedback leads to frustration When overcasting shows up most (new lakes, slow periods, watching others) Simple adjustments you can make right now to fish smarter How fan casting, retrieve variation, and countdown tactics change everything Why shorter, calculated casts often catch more fish than long bombs The mindset shift: fish the zone, not the impulse Top Takeaways: Every cast should serve a purpose Shorter casts = more control = more feedback Change retrieves to animate the fly differently Slow down, count down, and read your line Build confidence through precision, not repetition Outro:Overcasting kills your confidence. Precision builds it.If this episode hit home, let it be your sign to slow down, rethink your approach, and get intentional with every single cast. Stillwater fishing is about connection—not chaos.Thanks for listening to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. If this topic resonated with you, shoot me a DM on Instagram @thestillwateredge and let me know if you’re an overcaster in recovery. I always respond.Until next time, I’ll see you on the water.

Episode Title:Moonlight Monsters: Night Fishing for Stillwater Trout   Intro:Welcome to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host, Greg Keenan, and in this episode we’re diving into a rarely talked about but wildly productive tactic night fishing on stillwaters. I’ll cover why nighttime is the right time, where to fish, what flies work best, and how to do it all safely and effectively. Whether you're chasing a trout on a mouse fly or looking for that lights-out bite, this episode will help you unlock a whole new side of the lake. What You’ll Learn: Why Night Fishing Works Less pressure, cooler temps, and rising oxygen levels make fish feel safe—and aggressive. Big predatory trout come out to ambush prey after dark. Where to Focus Skip the middle—hit shoals, weed lines, shallow flats, and windward shores. Focus on structure and areas that were too warm during the day. What Flies to Use Big dark silhouettes like black leeches, woolly buggers, mouse and frog patterns. Attractor patterns for bold, aggressive strikes. How to Fish Them Slow retrieves with long pauses are deadly. Figure-eight retrieves help stay tight to the fly for those sudden hits. Gear and Safety Tips Use headlamps, short leaders, and glow indicators (with caution). Be visible, wear a PFD, and know your surroundings—it’s dark out there for real. Best Times to Night Fish: Hot summer nights Post-storm calm evenings When leeches, minnows, and gomphus are active Outro:If you’ve been ignoring stillwaters after dark, it’s time to rethink your approach. Night fishing unlocks less pressure, more action, and some of the most memorable hookups you'll ever have. Thanks for listening to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. If you found this episode helpful, follow the show, share it with your fishing partner, and I’ll see you on the lake maybe even after dark.

The Fly Size Fix: Match Your Fly to Water and Fish Behaviour Struggling to get eats on your go to pattern? It might not be the fly itself it could be the size. This episode breaks down the three key factors that should always influence your fly size on stillwaters. Intro:Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host Greg Keenan, and today we’re hitting a topic that’s often overlooked but absolutely critical fly size. We’re going to break down how to choose the right size of fly based on three things: water clarity, depth, and fish activity. This is one of those small adjustments that can unlock big results. Stick around, and make sure you catch the announcement at the end. Key Points Covered: Water Clarity Clear water: go small and natural fish have time to inspect Stained or murky water: size up for visibility and presence Depth Shallow water: match the hatch precisely Deeper water: bigger flies sink faster and stay visible longer Fish Activity Sluggish or picky fish: go subtle and smaller Active, aggressive fish: size up with bold flies like leeches or boobies If you're not getting follows or takes, your fly may be too big downsize Quick Takeaways: Clear water = smaller flies Murky or deep water = bigger flies Aggressive fish = bold, larger patterns Picky fish = subtle and natural Outro:That’s it for episode 50 of the Stillwater Edge. If you’ve ever been unsure about fly size, I hope this episode gave you a clear framework for making the right call. And on a personal note, thank you for being here this marks the 50th episode, and I appreciate every single one of you who tunes in. More content is coming, more tips are on the way, and I’ll see you on the water. Tight lines.

Cracking the Code of Dry Fly Days Ever wonder why some days trout crush dry flies and other days they ignore them completely? It’s not random and I’m breaking down exactly when, why, and how to time it right. Intro:Welcome to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host, Greg Keenan, and today we’re diving into one of the most exciting and overlooked tactics in stillwater fly fishing dry fly fishing. Watching a trout sip a fly off the surface is a thrill, but it only works if you know when and how to fish it. In this episode, I’m giving you four key factors that will help you master dry fly timing so you stop wasting time and start connecting with fish. Key Points: Time of Day Matters Focus on early mornings and evenings those light transition zones are when trout feel safe rising. Conditions Tell the Truth Calm, cloudy, and clear water create perfect dry fly conditions. Wind and bright sun ruin the game. Read the Rise Forms Sips, splashes, and swirls all mean something different. Learn what the trout are eating based on how they rise. Don’t Ignore the Surface Film That thin layer just under the surface is the deadliest zone when trout are porpoising. Fish it right or miss the action. Outro:Dry fly days are rare but magical if you’re paying attention. Watch the light. Read the rise forms. Fish the film. And most of all, let the lake tell you what’s happening. If this episode helped sharpen your surface game, do me a favor subscribe, leave a review, and share the Stillwater Edge Podcast with another angler. I appreciate every single one of you. Until next time, I’ll see you on the water. Tight lines.

Green Gold: Fishing the Weed Bed Edge If you're ignoring weed bed edges, you're skipping the buffet line of Stillwater fishing. Learn how to spot them, fish them, and load up on ferocious trout takes. Intro:Welcome to the Stillwater Edge podcast. I’m your host, Greg Keenan. In today’s episode, we’re diving into what I call the “Green Gold” of Stillwater fly fishing  weed bed edges. These underwater highways are where trout ambush food, and if you’re not fishing them, you’re leaving opportunity on the table. We’ll break down how to find them, what lines to use, the flies that work best, and how to fish them for explosive results. Main Takeaways:Why Weed Bed Edges Matter: Subsurface weed beds are high-traffic feeding zones for trout. They act as transition areas between cover and open water. Insects hatch and congregate in these areas  trout know this. How to Spot Weed Edges: Look for color transitions from green to dark blue water. Use polarized sunglasses to see subsurface weed texture in 5–8 feet of water. Turn up sonar sensitivity to mark weed lines. They’ll show up as static or tall columns. How to Fish Weed Edges: Cast parallel to the edge and retrieve along the structure. Target pockets and irregularities in the weedline. Focus on ambush zones where trout cruise and hold. Fly Line Recommendations: Hover, intermediate, or slow sink lines give you crucial depth control. Parabolic lines and clear camos are highly effective in 4–12 feet of water. If you only have a floating line, use a long 12-foot leader. Best Fly Patterns: Top 3: Damsels, leeches, and dragonfly nymphs like the gomphus. Bonus: Small baitfish patterns and booby flies, especially in fall or spring. Strip a damsel along the edge or suspend a chironomid outside the weeds. Retrieves That Work: Faster “pause and go” strip retrieves. Slower hand twist figure-eight retrieves for a subtle presentation. Bonus Conditions to Watch For: Wind pushes food into weed edges, concentrating feeding zones. Low light: dawn, dusk, and cloudy days light up the action. On pressured or trophy lakes: go long leader, quiet casts, and stealth mode. Lakes Mentioned: Corbett Lake: known for productive weed pockets and big trout. Island Lake and Tunkwa Lake: excellent examples for stealth weed-edge fishing in skinny water. Outro:Weed bed edges aren’t obstacles they’re opportunities. Mastering this zone will add a deadly tool to your Stillwater toolbox. If this episode helped, share it with your crew, drop a rating, and tag me when you stick a tank off a weed line. Thanks for listening to the Stillwater Edge podcast. See you on the water and tight lines.

Switch Fast Fish More Rigged & Ready Hook:Stillwater conditions change fast if you can't keep up, you're already behind. Here's how to stay in the game and catch more fish. Intro:Welcome to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host Greg Keenan, and today we’re digging into one of the most important super skills you can develop as a Stillwater angler how to switch your setup fast. This episode isn’t about efficiency for efficiency’s sake. It’s about catching fish when the conditions turn and the bite window opens. You need to be ready no hesitation, no fumbling. Let’s break down how to build a fast-switch system that keeps you fishing while others are still re-rigging. Main Tips Covered: Double Rod Setup:Always have at least two rods rigged and ready one with a floater (for indicators and dries), and one with an intermediate or full sink (for stripping patterns). Prep these before you hit the water so you can grab and go without delay. Method Swapping Without Downtime:When switching methods, cast the next rod before you reel in the current one. Let one fish while you reset the other. That’s bonus time with your fly in the water. Pre-Pick Your Backup Fly:Know your next fly before your current one stops working. Have it ready with tippet, nippers, and weight change fast and fish fast. Don’t waste 7 minutes second-guessing flies. Run a System:Think like a system. Know your fly sequence, rigged rods, and method transitions ahead of time. A dialed process beats guesswork every time. Outro:Stillwater fishing rewards the angler who stays ready. Fast transitions mean more time fishing, and more time fishing means more hookups. If you found value in today’s episode, tag us and share your own quick-swap systems. Stay sharp, stay prepared, and I’ll see you on the water. Tight lines.

The Fly Line Fix: 3 Easy Ways to Keep Your Cast Crisp You spent good money on your rods and reels so why are your fly lines turning to garbage? Intro:Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host Greg Keenan, and today we’re diving into one of the most overlooked ways to improve your casting and extend the life of your gear: fly line maintenance. It’s simple, quick, and will make your setup feel brand new again. If you want better casts, more takes, and longer lasting gear, this one’s for you. Key Points Covered: Rinse After Every Trip Not always realistic, but ideal especially in dusty, muddy, or slimy stillwaters. Prevents buildup that ruins line float and performance. Deep Clean Once a Month Soak in lukewarm water with mild soap. Clean while line is on the reel using a soft cloth. Helps maintain coating on newer fly lines like SlickCast and AST. Store It Right Never leave your fly line coiled on a reel in a hot car. Heat breaks down coating and locks in memory. Store in a cool, dry space and stretch out occasionally. Outro:Fly lines are expensive, but they don’t have to wear out fast. Stick to these three habits and your casts will stay clean and crisp all season long. Got your own maintenance tips? Hit me up on Instagram or YouTube and drop a comment I’d love to hear what works for you. Until next time, I’ll see you on the water. Tight lines.

Stealth Mode Activated: 10 Tips to Land More Fish on Stillwater Flats Think you’re being sneaky on the Stillwater flats? Odds are, you’re blowing your shot before your fly even hits the water. IntroWelcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m your host, Greg Keenan. Today, we’re dialing in your cast to avoid spooking fish and start hooking more of them especially in skinny, clear water where your mistakes don’t go unnoticed. Inspired by a recent chat with guides and lodges at the School of Fishing, we’re pulling proven tactics straight from the saltwater flats and applying them to Stillwater fishing. The goal? Stealthy, smart casting that actually converts. Let’s get into it. Key Tips Covered in the Episode Use a Longer Leader – Start with 10/12 feet to keep your fly away from your line’s shadow. Stay Low and Move Slowly – Minimize your profile whether you're on the bank or bow. Use Wind to Your Advantage – A light breeze at your back softens your fly landing. Roll Cast When Fish Are Close – Avoid false casts and whip slapping the line. Cast Beyond the Fish – Retrieve naturally into their path to avoid lining them. Consider Clear or Low Vis Lines – Especially helpful on calm, high-pressure days. Spot Before You Cast – Don’t blind cast use your eyes and polarized glasses first. One Cast, One Chance – Make your first shot count or reposition before trying again. Fish Low Light Windows – Early morning and late evening give you the stealth edge. Slow Down and Observe – Less casting, more watching. Hunt your fish like a pro. OutroThat’s a wrap on today’s episode. Remember, stealthy casting isn’t about being fancy it’s about being thoughtful. The fish are there. You just need to stop alerting them to your presence. Apply these tactics and you'll start seeing more hookups and fewer empty casts. Thanks for tuning in. Tight lines, and I’ll see you on the water.

Thermocline Tactics That Catch Fish when Nothing Else Does Struggling to find trout when the lake heats up? They didn’t disappear they just dropped into the thermocline. Here’s how to follow them down and stay in the zone all day. Show Notes:In this episode of the Stillwater Edge Podcast, Greg breaks down how to fish the thermocline a critical zone where trout retreat during warm summer days. You’ll learn what it is, why it matters, and how to consistently reach and fish it using the right lines and techniques. What You'll Learn: What the thermocline is and how it affects fish behaviour Why fishing just above or below it can mean the difference between a skunk and a banner day Which fly lines work best for targeting the thermocline (intermediate, hover, type 3/5/7 full sinks) How to use the countdown method and fish finder to locate the zone Greg’s go to method: the dangle with a full sink line How to make small adjustments to your setup that keep your fly in the strike zone longer Closing:The fish didn’t shut off they just moved down. Learn how to follow them, fish effectively at depth, and turn slow summer days into success. Got questions or tips on understanding the thermocline better! Tight lines until next time.

Fan Casting for Stillwater Trout How to Cover Water and Find Fish Stillwater has no current and no structure telling you where fish are. If you are just casting straight ahead and hoping, you are missing out. Fan casting is the methodical strategy that will help you locate active fish faster and cover more water with purpose. Episode Transcript Welcome to the Stillwater Edge podcast. I am your host Greg Keenan. Today we are going to talk about a deadly little strategy for finding fish and that is called fan casting. This one is easy and fun but incredibly effective. So what is fan casting exactly? Picture yourself standing on a clock face. Straight ahead of you is twelve o'clock. You are in your boat or on shore and you cast to that twelve o'clock position. But instead of just casting in one direction, you begin casting in a fan pattern. Ten o'clock. Eleven o'clock. Twelve. One o'clock. Two o'clock. Three. You are working that entire arc in front of you. Why do we do this? Because fan casting is a methodical organized way to cover water. Stillwater is not like a river. There are no currents or riffles telling you where fish are holding. Fish in stillwater are always moving. They are constantly cruising to find food. If you are only casting at twelve o'clock, you might be fishing dead water all day. Meanwhile the fish could be passing by at ten or two o'clock. Fan casting eliminates guesswork and increases your odds of intersecting with fish. So what makes fan casting so effective? It helps you identify structure and depth changes. Each direction might have different bottom composition. Maybe there is a drop off at one o'clock. Maybe a weed bed sits at three. Each cast gives you data. Every retrieve is information. If you get a take at two o'clock, that is a clue. If it keeps happening, now you know that is where the fish are moving. It is also about angle of presentation. A fish might ignore your fly from one angle but crush it from another. A leech retrieved head on looks small. A leech retrieved broadside looks like a full meal. Fan casting helps you hit those different angles until you find what triggers a strike. Let me give you a few pro tips for better fan casting. First, use a marker on land to keep your casting angles consistent. Pick a tree, a mountain, a rock, anything. Use it to define your twelve o'clock and work your arc from there. Second, change your depth, not your direction. If you are not getting bites, do not stop the fan casting pattern. Instead, try a faster sinking line or use a countdown to let your fly sink deeper. Third, track your hits mentally. Know where the strikes are happening. If you keep getting action at one angle, keep coming back to it. Fourth, let your fly rest after it lands. This mimics natural behaviour and gives the fly time to reach the proper depth. This is especially effective with attractor patterns. Finally, keep moving. If your fan casts produce no results, shift your position slightly. Make a new arc. Fish move constantly in stillwaters and you need to move with them. That wraps up this episode. Fan casting is simple but powerful. It helps you cover water, map the lake in your mind, and find fish without electronics. So next time you are on the bank or boat, use the fan casting approach and fish smarter. Thanks for tuning in to the Stillwater Edge. Leave a comment or review if this episode helped you out. And if you have your own fan casting tips, I want to hear them. Let’s help each other grow. Until next time, tight lines and I will see you on the water.

Stillwater Leader Setups How to Build for Every Technique The right leader setup can make or break your day on the water. From dry fly finesse to deep water stripping and naked line tactics, learn exactly how to build leaders that match your technique and maximize hookups. Episode Intro Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge podcast. I am Greg Keenan and today we are tackling a topic that often gets overlooked but is absolutely critical to your success on stillwaters. Leader construction. I will walk you through the exact leader setups I use for dry fly fishing, indicator rigs, deep water stripping, and the naked technique. You will also learn when to use mono versus fluorocarbon, how long to make your leaders, and how to dial in each rig to get more fish in the net. Key Takeaways Why Leaders Matter Leaders transfer energy from your line to your fly Control depth, drift, presentation, and strike detection Each fishing style demands a unique setup Dry Fly Setup Use twelve to fifteen foot leader Build from a nine foot tapered mono leader with added three to five X tippet Nylon mono floats better and provides softer presentation Perfect for spooky fish in calm water Deep Water Stripping Setup Use five to eight foot leader, six foot six inches is ideal Fluorocarbon eight to twelve pound test Sinks fast, transmits energy efficiently, improves hooksets Matches with sink three to sink seven lines Indicator Rig Setup Use a short butt section to no butt like Rio Stillwater Indicator Leader Add a barrel swivel and two feet of fluorocarbon tippet Fluorocarbon sinks quickly and resists drag Swivel helps prevent tangles and adds subtle weight for natural vertical drift Naked Technique Setup Use nine to twelve foot tapered leader Add twenty five percent extra fluorocarbon tippet for natural arc Designed for subtle drifts without indicators Fluorocarbon helps sink flies naturally and improves tension detection Mono Versus Fluorocarbon Mono floats and has stretch ideal for surface techniques Fluorocarbon sinks faster more sensitive nearly invisible great for subsurface Outro That wraps up this episode on Stillwater leader building. It does not need to be complicated but it does need to match your fishing technique. Tailor your rig and you will instantly improve your presentation and catch more fish. If this episode helped simplify your setup share it with a friend or tag me on Instagram with your own leader system. Let’s keep learning together. Until next time tight lines and I will see you on the water.

Fly Rod Length for Stillwaters Short Versus Long Rods Explained Choosing the right fly rod length can completely change your Stillwater game. Whether you fish from a boat or the bank, this episode breaks down when to reach for a short rod and when a long rod makes all the difference. Episode Intro Welcome to the Stillwater Edge podcast with Greg Keenan. In this episode, we are talking about one of the most overlooked but crucial decisions in Stillwater fly fishing rod length. If you have ever wondered whether a nine foot or ten foot rod is better for your fishing style, this breakdown will give you the clarity you need to choose the right tool for the job. Key Takeaways Short Rods Nine to Nine and a Half Feet Great for accuracy at short to medium distances Easier to use in tight spaces or while bank fishing Lightweight and less tiring on long days Excellent for small structured waters or short punchy casts Downsides include less control with indicators and long lines and limited leverage at a distance Long Rods Ten to Ten and a Half Feet Offer better reach and line control Ideal for indicators long leaders and boat fishing Handle wind and slack better Superior for managing fish during the fight Can be heavier and more tiring if not well balanced Awkward in tight spaces and more challenging to transport When to Use EachUse a short rod when: Fishing from shore with limited backcasting room Making short accurate casts into pockets Targeting fish in close on small stillwaters Prioritizing comfort and portability Use a long rod when: Fishing from boats tubes or on windy water Using indicator or long leader setups Lifting and recasting long lines frequently Fighting fish around obstacles or using the hang Greg’s RecommendationIf you want one rod that does it all go with a ten foot six weight. It covers most Stillwater scenarios and performs across techniques. But if you are mostly bank fishing or in small areas a shorter rod will serve you better. Outro That wraps up today’s episode. Rod length might seem like a minor choice but it plays a major role in your success on Stillwater. If this helped clarify your gear setup share the episode with a fishing buddy. Thanks for tuning in to the Stillwater Edge. I will see you on the water.

Dead Drift Tactics: The Silent Weapon for Slow Days on Stillwaters When trout refuse to chase, dead drifting can save the day. If you’ve ever faced flat calm water, lethargic fish, or high pressure lakes, this underrated technique might be your new best tool. Episode Intro Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast. I’m Greg Keenan, and today we’re talking about a method that doesn’t get enough attention dead drifting. It’s slow, it’s subtle, and it works when nothing else does. If you’ve been struggling with picky trout or pressured water, dead drifting offers a natural, energy free presentation that fish can’t resist. It’s not flashy, but it gets results and I’m going to show you exactly how to make it work on your next outing. Key Takeaways What is Dead Drifting in Stillwaters? Letting your fly drift naturally with wind and current Mimics helpless insects like midges, scuds, and nymphs No stripping, twitching, or aggressive movement just patience Why It Works Perfect for lethargic fish in cold or pressured conditions Natural presentation sits right in the strike zone Fish don’t have to chase just react How to Set It Up Use a floating line or midge tip with a long leader Go natural with fly patterns: micro leeches, scuds, small nymphs Avoid flashy attractor flies subtle works best Execution Tips Cast across the wind and let it drift naturally Minimal mending just enough to stay in contact Watch for subtle takes: twitches, line dips, or tension changes Stay patient long pauses matter more than frequent casts Confidence is key: believe in the fly and the drift Dead drift shines with slow sink lines like a midge tip setup Outro That wraps up this episode on dead drifting a slow but deadly method for Stillwater success. Next time the bite goes cold, try this technique and let the results speak for themselves. If you found this helpful, share the podcast, tag a fishing buddy, and leave a review. Tight lines and I’ll see you on the water.

Indicator Size Matters: Small, Medium, Large When to Use What? Stillwater anglers often ask: does indicator size really matter? The answer is yes and picking the wrong size can cost you fish. This episode breaks down exactly when to use small, medium, or large indicators to match your conditions and fly setup. Episode Intro Welcome to the Stillwater Edge Podcast, I’m your host Greg Keenan. Today we’re tackling a crucial but often overlooked topic: indicator size. Whether you’re fishing tiny chironomids on glassy water or chucking big balanced leeches in a wind chop, using the wrong indicator can mess up your presentation, kill sensitivity, and reduce hookups. I’ll walk you through the specific times and reasons to use small, medium, or large quick release foam indicators especially for BC style Stillwater setups. Key Takeaways Small Indicators: When Stealth Counts Ideal for calm conditions, clear water, and light flies Less water disturbance = better stealth Sensitive to subtle takes, great for spooky fish Natural drift in glassy water Best for spring/summer cruising fish near the surface Medium Indicators: The Daily Driver Best all around choice for mixed conditions Handles light chop, heavier flies, and variable depths Supports tungsten beadheads and longer leaders Great visibility without being intrusive Saves time when switching flies or depth on the same rig Best option when you're unsure or exploring new water Large Indicators: Built for Tough Conditions Use in strong wind, rough surface, or when visibility is critical Perfect for deep water, long leaders (20+ feet), and heavy flies Buoyant enough to suspend heavy rigs without sinking Easy to track in low light or at a distance Go big when fishing wind lanes, drop-offs, or bulky gear Outro Indicator size isn’t just preference it’s a performance tool. Match your size to the conditions, fly weight, and depth to maximize your chances on the water. Small = stealth, medium = balance, large = stability in rough weather. If this helped, follow the podcast, share it with your fishing crew, and hit me up with your indicator questions on Instagram or my website. As always tight lines, and I’ll see you on the water.

Episode Intro: Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast—your go-to source for quick, tactical tips to elevate your stillwater fly fishing game. I’m your host, Greg Keenan, and today we’re diving into a hot topic that’s been circling fly benches for years: how much detail do your flies really need? Especially when it comes to one of the most essential stillwater patterns—chironomids. Do you need to tie with surgical precision, or is close enough actually good enough? Let's find out. Key Points Covered: ✅ Pros of Highly Detailed Flies: Selective Trout Behavior:In calm, clear water during hatches, trout have time to scrutinize your fly. Accurate segmentation and color can absolutely matter. Angler Confidence:Sometimes detail isn’t just for the trout—it’s for you. Believing in your fly can change how effectively you fish it. Competitive Edge on Pressured Lakes:Trophy trout have seen it all. A fly with just the right UV flash, ribbing, or translucency can trigger strikes that generic patterns won’t. ❌ Cons of Overly Detailed Flies: Profile & Size Matter More:Studies show trout react to silhouette and size first—not micro details. Deeper or Murky Conditions:At 12+ feet or in wind-rippled water, fine details vanish. Movement, color, and contrast become more important. Time vs. Efficiency:Tying ultra-detailed flies can slow you down. If simpler flies catch fish just as well, why burn time on perfection? 🎯 The Verdict: Balance wins.Use realistic, detailed flies when trout are picky and conditions are clear. But in most cases, start simple and only adjust if you’re getting refusals. Don’t chase perfection—chase performance. Episode Outro: That’s a wrap for today’s episode of the Stillwater Edge Podcast. What do you think—are picky trout worth the extra tying effort, or are we just overcomplicating things? I want to hear your thoughts. Shoot me a message or tag me online—let’s keep this convo going. And as always, I’ll see you on the water.Until next time, tight lines.

Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast! In this episode, Greg Keenan dives into a topic many stillwater anglers underestimate — your reel’s drag system. It's more than just a backup plan for big saltwater fish; a well-tuned drag setup can be the difference between landing a trophy trout or adding another "one that got away" story to the pile. 🎙️ What You’ll Learn What a drag system actually does (spoiler: it’s not just for show). The three key reasons why drag systems matter in stillwater fly fishing. Four real-life fishing situations where drag will save your setup (and sanity). Why using light tippet without proper drag is asking for heartbreak. Greg’s thoughts on dangles, float tubes, and why your reel might be the weak link. 🧠 Key Points Drag Defined: Controls resistance as fish pull line — it’s your fish-fighting assistant. Why It Matters in Stillwater: Protects light tippets (think 5X, 6X) from snapping during runs. Handles powerful runs from beefy stillwater trout. Tires out fish effectively and ethically — especially if you're a catch & release angler. When You Need It Most: Fighting large trout (trophy water? Drag on!) Fishing deep or with sinking lines On the dangle (no drag = lost fish) From a float tube (unless you enjoy being towed like a boat anchor…) Episode Outro Don’t sleep on your drag system — it’s not just for stopping fish, it’s for landing them clean, smooth, and with your tippet intact. Next time you’re heading to the lake, give your reel a once-over. Smooth drag? Set appropriately? Great — now go get that fish of a lifetime. If you liked this episode, subscribe, leave a review, and help grow the Stillwater Edge community. And as always — see you on the water and tight lines till next time!

Episode Overview Your fly line choice is not just a technical detail—it’s the gateway to catching more fish, faster. In this quick-hit episode, Greg lays out exactly when to grab your floating line or switch to a sink tip, and why making the right call can be the difference between fish in the net or a long, fishless drift. Whether you're stripping buggers, wind drifting, fishing a chironomid, or hovering nymphs mid-column, knowing which line to use will instantly level up your stillwater game. 🧠 What You’ll Learn 🟩 When to Use Floating Line Best for shallow water precision and keeping flies above bottom clutter Mandatory for indicator setups—no exceptions Dominates in calm conditions with slow retrieves or wind drifts Essential for naked (non-indicator) techniques and controlled suspension ⚫ When to Use Sink Tip Go-to for hitting deeper zones and drop-offs where fish are holding Crushes it in wind and surface chop—stays in the strike zone Perfect for keeping weighted flies (like buggers or leeches) in the column without crashing to the bottom Offers stability and consistent depth control when you’re stripping or drifting 🎯 Greg’s Hot Tip “It’s not just what fly you use—it’s how and where it travels. Your line makes that happen.” 💬 Final Thoughts Floating lines and sink tips each shine in different moments. Knowing when to pivot isn’t guesswork—it’s strategy. Nail this decision and you’ll keep your fly where the fish actually are, not where you hope they might be. 🚨 Call to Action If this helped clear up the floating vs. sink tip mystery, hit follow and leave a review. Got questions or your own fly line moment of clarity? Message Greg—let’s get the Stillwater community talking. 🎤 Till next time, keep your presentations sharp and your lines tight. See you on the water!

Show Notes: Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast with your host, Greg Keenan. In this power-packed episode, Greg dives into one of the most misunderstood—and often avoided—elements in stillwater fishing: the wind. While most anglers see wind as a problem, Greg shows you how to flip the script and turn it into one of your greatest allies on the water. If you’ve ever packed up early because of the breeze, this episode will change the way you fish windy days forever. In This Episode, You'll Learn: 1. How Wind Affects Fish Behavior Wind creates surface disturbance that reduces light penetration, making fish feel safer. It pushes food like insects and plankton into specific areas, concentrating the trout's food source—and your opportunity. 2. Reading Wind to Predict Fish Location Windward Shores: Where the wind hits—more oxygen, more food, more fish. Leeward Shores: Often calmer, less food activity—fish may be deeper or more scattered. Islands & Breaks: Fish often stack up around structure that interrupts wind flow. Drift & Scum Lines: Foam, bubbles, and debris show you where bugs (and trout) collect. 3. Positioning Yourself for Success Use the wind to your advantage by drifting naturally along productive lanes. Smart anchoring with wind at your back helps you fish food-rich zones more effectively. 4. Casting & Presentation Adjustments Shorten leaders to improve control. Use heavier flies and sinking lines when needed. Adapt your casting: roll casts, double hauls, and letting floating lines ride the wave. Don't fight the wind—let it bring your fly to life. Outro – Wrap-Up & Action Steps Wind doesn’t have to end your day—it can make your day. Remember: Understand what the wind is doing to the lake. Use it to locate fish and food. Position smartly and adjust your gear. Let the wind work for you, not against you.  Found this episode helpful? Share it with a fellow angler who’s been battling the breeze. And don’t forget—next time you’re on the water, lean into the wind and let it guide your success. Until next time, tight lines and we’ll see you on the water.

Trolling with a fly rod is often written off as lazy—but when done right, it’s one of the most calculated, high-yield methods to find fish fast on stillwaters. In this episode, Greg breaks down how trolling can be one of the deadliest tools in your stillwater fishing arsenal. 🎙️ Episode Intro: "Hey, welcome to the Stillwater Edge podcast. I'm your host, Greg Keenan. Today, we’re diving deep into one of the most underrated techniques in stillwater fly fishing—trolling with a fly rod. Whether you’re working drop-offs for big trout or covering water between slow periods, trolling can help you find fish fast. Let’s strip away the misconceptions and learn how to do it right." 🧠 What You’ll Learn in This Episode: Why trolling isn’t lazy—it’s lethal when done right The exact type of fly line you need to succeed (hint: sinking is king) Leader setups: short vs long leaders and when to use each The best flies for trolling (think: leeches, streamers, and Gomphus) How structure like drop-offs, humps, and weedy edges are your trolling goldmines The power of inside and outside turns to trigger more strikes The ideal trolling speed to mimic natural prey in different water temps 🐟 Greg’s Key Tips: Use a Type 5 or 7 full sinking line – Floating lines won’t cut it. Experiment with leader length – 6’ for better control, 12’ for stealth and natural movement. Bigger flies work best – They create more vibration and hold up better at speed. Target structure zones – Drop-offs, humps, shoals, and weedy edges are fish magnets. Master your speed and direction – 1.2–1.8 mph is the sweet spot; use turns to mimic fleeing or injured prey. 🎣 Outro: "Trolling a fly isn’t just dragging a bug behind your boat—it’s about strategy. It’s about reading the water, dialing in your depth, and using movement to trigger the strike. If you’ve got tips, experiences, or trolling stories to share, drop them in the comments. I’d love to hear from you—and so would the new anglers listening in. Until next time, tight lines. I’ll see you on the water."

Struggling with your casting? It might not be your technique—it could be your line. In this episode, we break down why matching your fly line weight to your rod is crucial for better performance, accuracy, and presentation. Whether you're new or need a refresher, this is the quick hit you need to fish smarter. 🎙️ Episode Intro: Welcome back to the Stillwater Edge Podcast, where we deliver bite-sized, high-impact lessons to help you become a better stillwater angler. I’m your host, Greg Keenan, and today we’re talking about something that can make or break your casting game—fly line weights. Matching your line to your rod isn't just a suggestion, it's a foundation of great fly fishing. By the end of this episode, you'll understand exactly why it matters and how to get it right. 📝 Show Notes: Episode 33: Why Fly Line Weights Matter More Than You Think Overview:Greg dives into one of the most commonly asked questions by anglers: “Why does fly line weight matter so much?” Learn how this simple detail affects casting, accuracy, distance, and your entire fishing experience. What You’ll Learn: What fly line weight actually is (hint: it's all about the first 30 feet) 5 key reasons to match your fly line weight to your rod: Casting Performance – Proper flex and energy transfer. Accuracy – Control your loops and hit your targets. Distance Control – Reach fish at different depths and ranges. Ease of Use – Less fatigue, more fun. Fly Presentation – Make your dries land soft and your streamers punch through wind. How to choose the right line: Match it to your rod’s weight rating. Consider the rod action—fast vs. slow. Adjust for conditions (wind, big water, etc.). Overweighted lines for fast action rods (most modern setups are designed for this). Real-World Tip: If your casting feels off, don’t blame yourself first—check your fly line. A mismatched or worn-out line could be the issue. 🎧 Episode Outro: That’s it for today’s episode of the Stillwater Edge Podcast. If this helped you rethink your fly line setup, do me a favor—share it with a buddy who’s been struggling with their cast or thinking about upgrading. Sometimes the fix is as simple as swapping a line. As always, tight lines, and I’ll see you guys on the water next time.