What does it take to run a successful restaurant or several in a city full of them? Josh Fontaine, cofounder of Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and the newly opened A La Renaissance, knows something about it. He joins me to talk about what’s changed in the Paris food and beverage scene since COVID, the proliferation of concept-driven restaurants, creating longevity, and some of the details he’s most proud of at his new restaurant.
Mentioned in this episode:
Joshua Fontaine, Quixotic Projects
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Almost a year ago, I launched a series on my newsletter called Leaving America, based on the multitude of reasons Americans opt to leave the country and why many of them, as it happens, end up in Paris. Through this series and my network of creative women in Paris, I’ve connected with so many brilliant Americans who have moved, want to move, or at least understand the desire to. That includes Susanna Schrobsdorff, a former executive editor and columnist for Time Magazine who moved to Paris within the last couple of years. Right off the bat, we started talking together about the feelings tied up in leaving one’s homeland and Paris has done for us, as it has for so many before us. She joins me today to talk about her path to Paris, why it was the right place to settle at this point in her life, and the importance of building community to withstand the toughest of times.
Mentioned in this episode:
Suzy Hansen's Notes on a Foreign Country
The Blue Hour workshop with Glynnis MacNicol
Paris = luxury fashion, right? Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Chanel are pillars of France’s soft power and legacy of craftsmanship. And they are among the most counterfeited brands in the world. That's part of what I learned reporting on secondhand luxury and authentication issues for Bloomberg Businessweek.
I got to go behind the curtain at Vestiaire Collective, the leading French secondhand platform, to understand the surge in superfakes, how brands are responding to them, and how platforms like Vestiaire have become frontline defenders in this battle for authenticity. Today, I'm joined by Vestiaire's co-founder Fanny Moizant to talk about values, authentication, access, and how our relationship to French savoir-faire is evolving. Most of all, we'll discuss why secondhand no longer carries a stigma.
Mentioned in this story:
Today's guest, André Michel, is a Paris insider; the unofficial Mayor of Paris with a deep and varied knowledge of food and culture, and a talent for weaving it all into compelling storytelling and events. The occasional food and travel writer and event organizer joins me to talk about what it means to know Paris, why there’s never been a better or more dynamic time to visit or live in Paris, and what travelers should check out this summer.
Mentioned in this episode:
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Music by Little Glass Men
Diehard fans of Paris already know there’s never been a shortage of activities to fill one’s intellectual and cultural cup. Art openings, talks and conferences, concerts and performances happen every day of the week. But if you’re interested in learning in a classroom setting without going back to school in the traditional sense, the options dry up. That’s where Off Campus steps in. It’s a two-month-old coffee shop and bookstore launched by two friends that has a special room dedicated to classes for adults. I’m joined by the co-founder Siham Jibril to talk about what sparked the idea, why there’s more interest in continuing education, and which themes resonate most with Parisians.
Mentioned in this episode:
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
My new book is officially on shelves! To celebrate, The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore hosted me for a launch event last week. At the start, I was in conversation about the project (and more) with the legendary New York Times bestselling and James Beard Award–winning cookbook author Dorie Greenspan. This episode is an edited version of that discussion.
Mentioned in this episode:
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
In the canon of Paris narratives, few focus on oddball finds and secrets lurking right beneath our noses. But Vanessa Grall, more commonly known and Messy Nessy, has made it her calling card. For more than a decade she has sussed out offbeat tales and fascinating individuals who have shaped our world and published several guidebooks to help travelers get beyond the obvious. More than a year ago, she opened a storefront, Messy Nessy’s Cabinet, a shop full of curiosities she joins me to talk about today.
Mentioned in this episode:
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Music by Little Glass Men
So far, the year in Paris has been bright — at least in a cultural sense. The Louvre Museum is leading the charge with its very first full-fledged fashion exhibition in its 232-year history. To talk about why it’s significant, what visitors can expect, and the cultural context surrounding the pieces on display is Amy Verner, a fashion journalist and longtime Paris resident who has likely spent more time pondering the works inside the Louvre than all of my listeners combined.
Mentioned in this episode:
Like many people living in France, I took a break from alcohol during the imported milestone of Dry January. But we’re in February, and two wine fairs have brought wine lovers and wine pros to the city for talks, tastings, and buying. Wine consumption has been dropping steadily in France, and sales have declined since the 1970s.
So what’s happening here? How are people drinking? Are they drinking? What’s the status of natural wine today? Where should people go to drink well in Paris if they’re going to do so? I'm joined by Alicia Dorey, a wine journalist who writes regularly for Le Figaro, to talk about the ins and outs of wine consumption.
Mentioned in this episode:
Alicia's book A Nos Ivresses
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
A quick one from me to kickoff season 9 and share some fun news: I have a new book coming out this spring!
The Eater Guide to Paris hits shelves on April 29 in the U.S. /Australia/Europe and on May 8 in the U.K., wherever books are sold. A few links below to pre-order now:
Abrams (publisher)
Amazon (U.S.)
Booktopia (Australia)
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
I'm recording new episodes for season 9 (coming soon!) but I wanted to bring back some of the most appreciated episodes of the show in the meantime. I originally recorded this episode with Comice co-owner and sommelière Etheliya Hananova in March 2022, and it ranks among the most listened-to since I first started recording in 2017.
She talks about the journey from Montreal to Paris, the type of dining environment she and her husband, Comice's chef, Noam set out to create, and what it means to be working in wine in Paris on her terms.
This month is my 18th December living in Paris, and as I reflect on that time, I’m struck by how much the city still enchants and surprises me. It might be a buzzy neighborhood, a refurbished historical marvel like Notre Dame, a dining experience, or something more unexpected. Someone in the business of sussing out and building such experiences, including some I have attended, is today’s guest Catherine Down. She’s a food writer and travel and event consultant who joins to talk about the most surprising spaces and experiences in Paris, what she finds so meaningful about the city after 12 years as a resident and what she recommends if you’re coming to town this month.
Mentioned in this episode:
Ice Skating at the Grand Palais
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
In times of turmoil, we naturally seek sources of calm. And in Paris, perhaps nothing that recenters Parisians more than the Seine. The city’s most iconic waterway has shaped its mythology long before there were tourist boats and selfie-taking travelers. Today, the significance of the Seine is front and center again, thanks to the Olympics and a billion-euro cleanup project. To talk about this, I’m joined by my friend and fellow journalist Mary Winston Nicklin, who reported National Geographic’s cover story on the Seine earlier this year.
Mentioned in this episode:
National Geographic Cover Story (Online edition)
The ancient goddess of the Seine River: Sequana
The Man Who Swam the Seine (GQ)
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Did you know that Arabic is the second most spoken language in France? However, the way it is perceived and taught has led many Arabic speakers in France to either abandon the language or not pass it down to their children. It’s this particular experience that the journalist Nabil Wakim sought to investigate in his documentary for France 2, Mauvaise Langue. He joins the show to talk about the project, what has been done, or not done, politically to boost Arabic instruction and France’s relationship with the Arabic language.
Mentioned in this episode:
Najat Vallaud-Belkacem, former minister of education under François Hollande
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
It’s been several months since the President threw us into a mess by calling a snap election and in early September, months overdue, Macron finally named a prime minister. What does his choice mean for the country, and what does it signal to voters who cast their ballots for the left coalition? I speak with Alexander Hurst, a writer and columnist for The Guardian whose recent op-ed looks into what went wrong and what issues the new government inherits.
Mentioned or featured in this episode:
French politics analogy in the Guardian op-ed
Alexander's op-ed column for The Guardian
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Music by Little Glass Men
After enduring nearly a year of pandemic-related isolation and a punishing lack of human touch, author Glynnis MacNicol boarded a plane for Paris in August, 2021 to sublet a friend’s apartment for the month. She was 47 years old and on a mission—100% enjoyment. An exploration of pleasure. Close contact. Her memoir about this time, called I’m Mostly Here to Enjoy Myself, came out a few months ago and I was delighted to interview her in Paris last week at The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore. This episode is a recording of that conversation.
Mentioned in this episode:
Order "I'm Mostly Here to Enjoy Myself"
It’s the end of summer holidays, the city is slowly filling up again and that means, novelty is upon us. I associate this time with new restaurant openings, events, and even pop-ups that will carry us to the end of the year. It’s a return to life. One person who is full of life, with plenty of creative ideas to usher in a new season, is Fanny Boucher. She’s the creator of the jewelry brand Bangla Begum and she joins the show to talk about moving to Paris after high school, becoming an entrepreneur, and developing her personal style while living in Jaipur for nearly a decade.
Mentioned in this episode:
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
Music by Little Glass Men
After years of planning and a solid 7 months of Parisian complaining, the Olympics are here! Over their history, they have put some tourist destinations on the map, attempted to build unity, and accelerated social and infrastructural change in host cities. Of course, not everyone benefits, and the legacy of the Olympics, including the impact on tourism, is fraught. To discuss both Paris 2024 and the broader issue of tourism, the good, the bad, and the complicated, I'm joined by Paige Mclanahan, a fellow travel journalist and the author of the new book The New Tourist: Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel.
Mentioned in this episode:
Copenhagen Rewards Tourists for Good Behavior
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
In the last episode, you heard me talk to Katy Lee about the snap elections in France. Why they happened, what they mean, and what party was predicted to perform well in the first round. Now, the day before the second round and not only has everything we discussed come to pass, but the stakes are even higher now. Let's go through the results of the first round, what they mean, and why the far right really does present the same danger it always has for democracy in France.
Mentioned in this episode:
French scientist op-ed in Le Monde
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
(This episode was recorded on June 14)
There's a lot to unpack following President Macron’s decision to dissolve the lower house of parliament and call snap elections for the end of June and there is no one better to dive in with me than journalist and podcaster Katy Lee. We discuss the role of these elections, what Macron’s move means for the country, and the political alliances that have formed in record-breaking time. Is there reason to remain hopeful? Have a listen and find out.
Mentioned in this episode:
Katy Lee of The Europeans podcast
The Europeans episode on the European Elections
Audio production & editing: Matthew Jordan
