The conversation delves into the dangers faced by military mountaineers, particularly focusing on acute mountain sickness and carbon monoxide poisoning. Emily Johnston shares insights from research that highlights the risks associated with weather conditions and the use of stoves in tents. Mauri DiMeo discusses innovations in mountaineering gear designed to enhance safety and efficiency. The dialogue emphasizes the importance of understanding these hazards and the need for better equipment to mitigate risks.
Mauri DiMeo and Silas Rossi delve into the intricacies of ice climbing, focusing on the essential gear and techniques required for safety and efficiency. They explore the nuances of building the right ice rack, proper ice screw selection, and the role of V-Thread tools in creating secure anchors. The conversation also touches on the challenges of climbing in varying ice conditions and the strategies for using traditional protection methods effectively.
In this conversation, Elyse Ping Medvigy shares her journey from military life to high-altitude mountaineering, discussing the challenges of balancing personal interests with professional obligations. She reflects on her experiences climbing iconic mountains like Everest and Mount Hood, the importance of mental preparation, nutrition, and the dynamics of climbing teams. Elyse emphasizes the need for self-reliance, the impact of stress on performance, and the lessons learned from both successes and setbacks in her climbing career.
In this episode of Tactical Alpinism, Mauri DiMeo discusses the importance of selecting the right helmet for various outdoor activities, particularly climbing and skiing. He highlights recent achievements in the Himalayas, explains the different certifications for helmets, and provides insights into the types of helmets available. The conversation emphasizes the significance of understanding helmet standards and making informed choices based on specific activities to ensure safety.
Takeaways:
In this conversation, Jim Donini shares his extensive experiences in climbing, discussing the evolution of techniques, the impact of personal tragedy on his journey, and the importance of partner dynamics in climbing. He reflects on the joy of exploration, the significance of first ascents, and the future of climbing, emphasizing that there are still many unclimbed peaks and challenges ahead for the next generation of climbers. Donini also touches on health challenges he has faced and how they have shaped his perspective on climbing and life.
climbing, alpine climbing, first ascents, mountaineering, Jim Donini, outdoor adventure, climbing techniques, health challenges, climbing philosophy, exploration
Silas is an IFMGA licensed mountain guide and an AMGA instructor team member with the AMGA. He is also the current president of the AMGA's board of directors.
Silas guide's aroudn the world and is primarily based in the Shawangunks of NY. He runs the online education and guiding platform ALPINE LOGIC.
Once created, the gear list I mention in the episode will be here.
Paul Rogers shares his experiences leading the Special Operations Mountain Warfare Training Course, studying at NPS, a significant skiing accident in Colorado, and the subsequent rescue operation that saved his life. He discusses the importance of risk management in mountain warfare training, the unique role of Green Berets in unconventional warfare, and the need for better preparation for future mountain operations. The conversation highlights the lessons learned from personal experiences and the broader implications for military training and operations in mountainous terrains.
In this conversation, Paul Rogers and Mauri DiMeo delve into the complexities of mountain warfare, discussing the challenges of survival and operational effectiveness in harsh environments. They explore the costs associated with thriving in such terrains, the evolution of training programs, and the importance of leadership in understanding the unique demands of mountain operations. The discussion also touches on irregular warfare strategies in mountainous regions and the need for specialized training to enhance military capabilities. Ultimately, they emphasize the necessity of investing in both personnel and resources to ensure success in mountain warfare.
Images of the fall down Wilson Peak
Paul's Article: "The Answers are in the Mountains: Countering Chinese Aggression with Irregular Warfare"
This is the first episode of a shorter type of episodes. The Mountain Locker is a series of solo and discussion based gear, equipment and tactics focused episodes.
As requested, here are some of the pieces mentioned in this episode.
In this episode, Logan Talbot, an IFMGA guide, shares his journey into climbing, the importance of mentorship, and the art of decision-making in high-stakes environments. He discusses risk management strategies, the thrill of exploring the unknown, and the significance of having a reliable team in the mountains.
Operational Risk Form from Alpenglow: https://tacticalalpinism.com/blog/blog-post-title-one-twz94
This Episode's cover art background is Artesonraju, which Logan talked about in this episode.
Chapters
Keywords
Peru, Artesonraju, Alpamayo, 8k, Cordillera Blanca, Himalaya, High altitude, climbing, mentorship, risk management, IFMGA, mountain guide, decision-making, high-stakes, adventure, exploration, team dynamics
The conversation explores the evolution and impact of the 10th Mountain Division and its Alpine Club, focusing on the cultural significance, training methodologies, and leadership dynamics within the military mountaineering context. It highlights the importance of outdoor recreation in shaping the identity of soldiers and the legacy of the division, while also addressing the challenges and opportunities in modern military training.
Tanner Wanish on Manufacturing Adversity and Redefining Limits”
In this episode, we sit down with Tanner Wanish—former Navy SEAL turned elite big-wall climber—whose achievements in Yosemite have redefined what’s possible. From setting a speed record on the Triple Crown to inventing the Yosemite Quad and completing the Goliath Traverse.
We dive into Tanner’s unique philosophy of “manufacturing adversity”—deliberately seeking out hardship as a path to growth. He shares how his military background shaped his mental toughness, the logistics of fueling multi-day endurance climbs, and the delicate balance between risk and reward.
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This discussion was originally recorded and released on the MOPS N MOES Podcast. It dives into the research I conducted over the past few years, looking at a potential new metric for assessing and individualizing endurance training.
Here is the manuscript for the research if you're nerdy enough to want to read it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18iFyMifoPSL5r60GAXPE8b-VFJny36dy/view?usp=sharing
Chris Schulte has been a professional climbing athlete for Black Diamond, La Sportiva and several others since pretty early on in the United States' progression with that even being a profession. He was a mysterious figure in the Bouldering scene for many because he seemed to avoid the limelight and just climb hard things. When I found out that he was local to where this podcast is produced and recorded, I just knew I had to have him on.
Find some of the writing that he mentions in the episode below:
Patience: https://climbingzine.com/patience-chris-schulte/
Hidden Dragons: https://climbingzine.com/hidden-dragons-chris-schulte/
Jonathan Pope is one of the founders of Building the Elite and Fuel My Day Foods. Building the Elite is a tactical fitness company that focusses on preparing operators for selections and the rigors of their very physical job. Fuel My Day Foods was a brain child of Johnathan for addressing issues he was experiencing on big mountain days and for issues the operators he trains, who still wanted to fuel and perform well, were experiencing on long deployments.
Building the Elite: https://www.buildingtheelite.com/
Fuel My Day Foods: https://www.fuelmydayfoods.com/collections/all
Lance R. Blythe is a self described backcountry skier with a history problem. He is the Command Historian of the North American Aerospace Defense Command and the U.S. Northern Command. He is also Adjunct Professor of History at the United States Air Force Academy.
List and downloads of his written works:
https://academyadmissions.academia.edu/LanceBlyth
Mark Smiley is an internationally certified (IFMGA) mountain guide that has really leaned into online education. He initially gained public awareness because of climbing and filming the 50 Classic Climbs of North America with his wife Janelle.
In this episode we discuss the detailed planning, selection of partners and sacrifices that go into big objectives before transitioning to talking about the Mountain Sense courses that Mark created.
50 Classic Climbs:
https://www.climbing.com/travel/the-50-classic-climbs-of-north-america/
Mountain Sense Course Library:
https://www.mtnsense.com/
NW Alpine is a mountain apparel brand that focuses on having as much of their process, from the textile mills through the assembly, based in the USA. I was not too aware of how challenging this process can be until I started talking with Bill.
Bill Amos is the founder of NW Alpine and is also a lifelong climber and skier who got into making apparel so that he could spend more time in the mountains. You'll need to listen to the episode to see how that turned out...
Made in the USA Climbing Brands: https://www.nwalpine.com/pages/made-in-usa-climbing-brands
In this episode evolution, and future of mountain warfare training in the U.S. Army. From the history of the 10th Mountain Division in World War II to the recent 2025 introduction of the Army's Mountaineering Badge now authorized for Army-wide wear. Plus, we break down what it takes to earn the badge today, where soldiers train, and why mountain warfare skills remain mission-critical in modern operations.
HR5009 Section 1086: https://www.congress.gov/bill/118th-congress/house-bill/5009/text
2024: Arctic Strategy: https://media.defense.gov/2024/Jul/22/2003507411/-1/-1/0/DOD-ARCTIC-STRATEGY-2024.PDF
Today on the podcast, we’re joined by a true professional of the mountain world—Larry Goldie. A professional mountain guide with over three decades of experience, Larry’s career has taken him from the rugged peaks of the North Cascades to the remote heights of Antarctica, with stops in Alaska, the Alps, Japan, Africa, and nearly every major mountain range in between.
Larry was the 28th American to earn the prestigious IFMGA certification, marking him as one of the elite few qualified to guide internationally in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines. But what really sets him apart isn’t just his resume—it’s his passion for people. Whether he's breaking trail on a deep powder day, coaching everyday athletes to reach their potential, or mentoring the next generation of guides, Larry brings a deep love for the process and the people that make mountain time so meaningful.
He lives in Winthrop, Washington with his wife and daughter, and has spent a lifetime learning how to balance family, adventure, and high performance. From first ascents in the Cascades to heli-skiing the best snow on Earth, Larry’s journey is both inspiring and refreshingly down-to-earth.
So so I trust you will enjoy this conversation as we dig into the life, lessons, and snowy tales of Larry Goldie."**
Today’s guest is Alex Morrow, the founder of MOPS and MOEs a podcast and education platform that focuses on improving the fitness of the force. Alex created MOPs & MOEs after realizing how antiquated the Army’s approach to fitness was, and after many attempts (and failures) to bring attention to this issue from the inside. He graduated from West Point in 2013 and spent eight years on active duty serving in the 4th Infantry Division and 10th Mountain Division before landing at the US Army Physical Fitness School. Once he got a taste of the human performance world, he knew he couldn’t turn back. He continues to serve as an intelligence officer in the Army Reserve while working full-time on modernizing Army fitness.
One challenge that many people have is the ability to get to the mountains. Sometime that is time, some times it is location and other times is based in fear, or a lack of skill to get after the thing confidently.
All of the guests on this podcast have been experts in some facet of operating in the mountains. Our guest today is a really good friend. I asked him on to talk about his progression into spending more time in the the mountains. If you’re wanting to get out more often, this discussion, I hope, will highlight how you are not alone.
Some of the Books mentioned: