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The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Jennifer Cookson | Tagra Biotechnologies
27 episodes
6 days ago
The Demystifying Cosmetics podcast, hosted by industry veteran and beauty enthusiast Jennifer Cookson, creates a space for open and insightful conversations about the ever-evolving cosmetics world. At Tagra, we connect chemists, formulators, product developers, and marketers to discuss the latest trends, innovations, and strategies shaping the future of beauty. Join us as we break down technical barriers and uncover the stories and insights driving the next generation of cosmetics.
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Science
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All content for The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast is the property of Jennifer Cookson | Tagra Biotechnologies and is served directly from their servers with no modification, redirects, or rehosting. The podcast is not affiliated with or endorsed by Podjoint in any way.
The Demystifying Cosmetics podcast, hosted by industry veteran and beauty enthusiast Jennifer Cookson, creates a space for open and insightful conversations about the ever-evolving cosmetics world. At Tagra, we connect chemists, formulators, product developers, and marketers to discuss the latest trends, innovations, and strategies shaping the future of beauty. Join us as we break down technical barriers and uncover the stories and insights driving the next generation of cosmetics.
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Science
Episodes (20/27)
The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Fragrance with Purpose: Building Sustainable Scent Strategies with Cassandra Browning

Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry.With a degree in aroma and formulation science from the UK and experience spanning global fragrance houses including L'Oréal and as EU fragrance head for Ecover and Method, Cassandra brings rare expertise bridging creative and technical aspects of fragrance.Takeaways:Context Makes a Fragrance Brief Effective: A good fragrance brief goes far beyond describing how something should smell. Include target demographic, brand positioning goals, whether you're trying to disrupt or align with category norms, and how the launch fits your overall brand strategy. This context allows fragrance houses to make strategic recommendations, like suggesting vanilla over apple for disrupting a 50-year-old woman's dishwashing habits.No Universal Standards for Fragrance Sustainability: Each fragrance contains at least 30 ingredients, each with its own complex supply chain, making sustainability assessment extremely difficult. Fragrance houses are creating internal scorecards measuring renewability and naturality, but metrics like water use, land impact, and carbon footprint are nearly impossible to standardize. Even getting competing fragrance houses to agree on basic definitions is extraordinarily challenging.Natural Doesn't Equal Sustainable or Safe: The assumption that natural ingredients are automatically better is flawed. It takes 10,000 pounds of rose petals to make one pound of rose oil, creating massive water, land, and energy impacts. Natural ingredients also contain more allergens. Meanwhile, some eco-labels like Nordic Swan advocate for 100% synthetic ingredients as better for skin and environment, while others like Ecosurf require 100% essential oils.Build Olfactory Brand Identity Before Individual Products: Successful multi-category brands establish a clear fragrance strategy defining what their brand stands for olfactively, like "fragrances found in nature" or specific adjectives and performance levels. This framework then guides all product development across categories, ensuring consistency while meeting individual category norms, rather than treating each fragrance as a standalone decision.Innovation Requires Balancing Disruption with Consumer Comfort: In established categories like toothpaste or laundry where consumers associate specific scents with efficacy (mint equals clean teeth, certain notes equal clean laundry), innovation must find ways to differentiate through ingredient stories, sourcing narratives, or technical approaches while maintaining the non-negotiable comfort signals consumers expect.


Connect with Cassandra and learn more about strategic fragrance development at: https://www.fragrancesforgood.com/

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1 week ago
37 minutes 56 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
More Than a Molecule: What It Really Takes to Launch a New Cosmetic Ingredient with James Dillard

In this candid 30-minute conversation, James Dillard shares what he wishes he had known before launching a new cosmetic ingredient—and what every formulator, brand founder, and raw material supplier should understand about the realities of innovation in beauty. We explore: Why scientific elegance isn’t enough—and what actually moves decision-makers, the invisible gatekeepers that stall ingredient adoption, how messaging, not just molecule design, shapes commercial success, why the industry’s narrow lens can block cross-industry innovation and the importance of storytelling, positioning, and relentless clarity.Takeaways:• The Unconventional Entry Point: James entered cosmetics through kelp as a zero-input crop, choosing beauty over nutraceuticals due to small-scale manufacturing requirements and high-value products. The beauty industry operates as a warm, tight-knit community that takes care of its own once you earn trust.• Scientific Elegance Isn't Enough: Ingredient developers must translate technical performance into consumer benefits. Buyers want uniqueness that creates lasting customer relationships, not just novel chemistry. Understanding that "unique" might mean a plant-based pump spray mineral sunscreen, not impressive lab results.• Focus on One Use Case, Not Everything: Claiming your ingredient works for everything reads as "good for nothing." Focus on being 10 out of 10 in one specific application to overcome the risk hurdle. Customers will naturally experiment with other uses over time and feed back into your innovation loop.• Expect Long Sales Cycles and Build Trust Slowly: Plan for 12-18 month sales cycles with the first six months just building trust. The industry won't trust you until they see you at conferences twice. This creates challenges for startups needing to show investors concrete commitments beyond handshake deals.• Contract Manufacturers Can Enable Innovation: CMs are uniquely positioned to offer conditional contracts to ingredient startups, solving the chicken-and-egg problem of scaling. This would allow startups to show investor traction while giving CMs exclusive access to novel ingredients that differentiate their offerings.


Whether you're a startup trying to break into the ingredient space or a brand overwhelmed by the influx of “next-gen” actives, this episode offers an unfiltered look at the grind behind the gloss.

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3 weeks ago
41 minutes 15 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
The Scented Truth: Decoding Fragrance Transparency in Beauty

Today’s episode dives into the fragrant but often foggy world of fragrance in cosmetics. Joining us is Ashlee Posner, co-founder of Lucent Labs, a fragrance and formulation partner helping brands navigate the space between creativity, compliance, and consumer trust.Together, we explore the tension between artistry and regulation in scent:Why fragrance is often called a “black box” on ingredient labelsWhat brands don’t have to tell you—and whyWhat’s really hiding under the word “fragrance”Whether “cleanwashing” is the new greenwashingWho’s actually responsible for fragrance safety—and what can fall through the cracksAnd what Ashlee thinks of IFRA standards and how they shape the industryWhether you’re a brand founder, product formulator, or just a curious consumer who wants more transparency, this episode will open your eyes—and your nose—to what’s really going on behind the scent.Takeaways:• Fragrance Ingredients Are Completely Hidden from Everyone: The word "fragrance" on any product label can represent 50-300 ingredients that remain undisclosed not just to consumers, but also to the brands using them and even chemists working on projects. This information never leaves the fragrance house, creating zero accountability in a system protected by trade secret laws that made sense 100 years ago but are completely outdated today.• The Fragrance Industry Operates as a Controlled Monopoly: Only 4-6 very large businesses control the entire fragrance supply chain, owning both the formulations and the raw materials. This creates a system where these companies have minimal regulation, can lock in customers without transparency, and have no incentive to change because the current model benefits them financially while leaving brands and consumers in the dark.• Natural Doesn't Equal Safe in Fragrance: Many consumers and brands assume natural fragrance ingredients are automatically safer than synthetic ones, but this isn't necessarily true. Natural essential oils can contain carcinogens, endocrine disruptors, and allergens. The key is evaluating each ingredient based on scientific safety data rather than making assumptions based on whether it's natural or synthetic.• Traditional Fragrance Development Is Inefficient and Wasteful: The lack of transparency creates massive inefficiencies where chemists spend months developing formulations only to discover compatibility issues when fragrance is added last. Without knowing what's in the fragrance, they're forced to solve "algebra problems" or use less fragrance, ultimately making inferior products rather than addressing the root compatibility issues.• Transparency Enables Better Products and Faster Development: When fragrance partners share ingredient information upfront, brands can make informed decisions, avoid compatibility issues, get third-party certifications, and develop products faster. Partnership and early collaboration between fragrance developers and formulators leads to better outcomes than the traditional secretive approach.


Guest Name: Coleen KelleyWebpage: https://lucentlaboratories.com/Likedin: (https://www.linkedin.com/company/lucent-laboratories/)

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1 month ago
46 minutes 8 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Skinminimalism: Doing More With Less in Modern Beauty

In this episode, we're exploring the rising trend of skinminimalism: the art and science of streamlining your skincare without sacrificing performance. To help break it down, we're joined by Mark Broussard, founder of Desert in Bloom Lab—a formulation and manufacturing expert who's built a career helping brands create high-performing, science-forward products with purpose.Together, we explore:What skinminimalism really means for consumers and brandsThe difference between functional ingredients and "label decoration"Why multi-functional actives and purified plant extracts are keyHow minimalist routines are reshaping product portfoliosAnd what it takes to approach formulation with a "less is more" mindsetKey Takeaways:• Skin Minimalism = Smarter Skincare: It's about fewer ingredients, fewer products, and fewer steps—without sacrificing performance.• The 1% Line Trick: Learning to read ingredient lists helps spot label decoration and identify what's actually doing the work.• Functional vs. Fluff: Functional ingredients like niacinamide and retinol alternatives should be used at optimal concentrations—not just for marketing.• Keep It Simple: A basic, effective routine includes a cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. That’s it for most skin types.• Layering Caution: Using too many products from different brands can lead to sensitivity and ingredient conflicts.• Product Portfolios Need Streamlining: Brands should evaluate performance and cut portfolio bloat before launching more products.• Formulators Need Restraint: Focus on gold-standard ingredients and avoid ingredient overload.• Less Can Be More Effective: Overuse of actives (e.g. 12% niacinamide) may cause irritation or harm skin instead of helping it.

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1 month ago
38 minutes 31 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
LCA Isn't the Whole Story: Rethinking Sustainability in Beauty With Evan Peters

From "low-impact formulas" to "carbon-neutral packaging," beauty brands love a sustainability claim—but what are those claims really based on?


In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we sit down with Evan Peters, founder of Fairglo, to unpack the promise and pitfalls of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in the cosmetics industry. We go beyond the buzzwords to explore how system boundaries, data gaps, and marketing spin can shape—and sometimes distort—what LCAs actually reveal about a product's environmental footprint.


Evan shares his insights on cradle-to-gate vs. cradle-to-grave approaches, why end-of-life impacts are often left out, and how LCAs can be used to legitimize greenwashing when taken out of context. We also zoom out to consider what LCAs miss entirely—like biodiversity loss, microplastic pollution, and social equity—and why a more holistic toolkit is needed to evaluate sustainability in beauty and personal care.


Takeaways:


LCAs Are Only as Good as Their Boundaries: Deciding how far back (and forward) to track product impact is crucial—and highly variable.


Cradle-to-Gate vs. Cradle-to-Grave: Many brands stop tracking environmental impact once the product leaves the factory, missing key downstream data.


Fairglow’s Value Proposition: The platform democratizes LCAs by reducing cost, increasing transparency, and enabling quick scenario testing.


Green Claims Need Rigor: Publishing LCA data should include third-party verification, especially for comparative or marketing claims.


What LCAs Miss: Emerging sustainability issues—like biodiversity, microplastics, and forced labor—are often outside LCA scope.


Natural ≠ Sustainable: Synthetic ingredients can often have lower carbon footprints than “natural” ones like rose oil.


Data Is Power—If Organized: Brands must digitize operations to track formulations, packaging, and logistics to get an accurate environmental picture.


If you work in product development, sustainability, or just want to understand what’s behind the claims, this 30-minute episode will give you the clarity (and caution) you need to read between the carbon lines.


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3 months ago
33 minutes 33 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Behind the Beaker: Victoria Fu on Science, Skincare & Speaking Truth

On this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re going deep with Victoria Fu—former L'Oréal chemist and one half of the dynamic duo behind Chemist Confessions. Known for blending scientific rigor with internet-savvy wit, Victoria shares how she and co-founder Gloria Lu built a platform that busts skincare myths, translates chemistry into everyday language, and formulates products that actually deliver.From navigating the hype cycles of “clean beauty” to defending misunderstood ingredients and simplifying tough concepts for TikTok, we explore what it takes to be both a science educator and a brand founder in today’s beauty landscape. Plus, we unpack their approach to product development, testing on a startup budget, and what they wish the industry would finally get right.Key Takeaways:• Science & Education Go Hand-in-Hand: Chemist Confessions began as an educational platform before it became a brand, prioritizing consumer knowledge over hype.• DIY Sunscreen Is Dangerous: Victoria warns against this persistent skincare myth—some risks aren’t worth the experiment.• The Myth of “Oil-Free”: This label causes more confusion than clarity; not all oils are bad, especially for oily skin types.• Real Testing Matters: The brand invests in meaningful clinical testing, even simulating real-life retinol onboarding to reflect how consumers use products.• Innovation ≠ More SKUs: With only nine full products, they demonstrate how thoughtful formulation and consumer testing can reduce bloat.• Education That Evolves: From hand-drawn posts to TikTok strategy, Victoria reflects on how the brand’s voice matured while remaining rooted in integrity.• Formulators Are Consumers Too: Victoria and her co-founder Gloria approach product creation from three angles: chemist, user, and brand owner—balancing innovation, practicality, and joy.


If you’ve ever wondered how real chemists think about skincare, this episode is for you. Tune in for smart takes, honest reflections, and a few laughs along the way.

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3 months ago
57 minutes 53 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Cracking the Chemistry Code: Molecular Literacy with Colleen Kelley

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with retired chemistry professor and visionary educator Dr. Colleen Kelley, creator of Kids Chemical Solutions. Colleen shares how her comic books and playful curriculum are transforming how children—and adults—learn chemistry by treating it as a language. From teaching molecular literacy as early as age eight to shaping more informed consumers, Colleen makes the case that chemistry fluency is not only possible at a young age but essential for our future. This episode is a must-listen for educators, parents, and anyone passionate about science education, storytelling, or innovation in cosmetics and beyond.Takeaways:• Chemistry = Language: Molecular literacy is the ability to "read" chemistry like a language—complete with symbols, grammar, and fluency.• Early Exposure Matters: Kids as young as eight can grasp core chemical concepts like bonding, equations, and polyatomic ions.• Beyond the Lab Coat: Real science isn't all explosions and goggles—it's data, interpretation, storytelling, and literacy.• Hands-On ≠ Learning: Doing an experiment isn’t enough—students need to be able to analyze and tell the story behind the data.• Visuals & Humor Work: Comic book storytelling helps break down intimidating scientific concepts into digestible, memorable lessons.• Chemistry in Everyday Life: Understanding basic chemistry enables consumers to decode cosmetic labels, environmental terms like “carbon footprint,” and nutritional marketing with confidence.• Equity Through Literacy: Making chemistry accessible through comics and inclusive character design can bridge educational and socioeconomic gaps.

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4 months ago
55 minutes 20 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Beyond Breakouts: The Future of Acne and Aging with CLEARSTEM' with Mercedes Amans

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major gap in skincare. From ingredient myth-busting to the limitations of current testing methods, this episode is a masterclass for anyone working at the intersection of skin sensitivity, science, and beauty.Takeaways:• Acne + Aging Can Coexist: ClearSTEM is disrupting the belief that anti-aging products must sacrifice acne safety—and vice versa.• Not All “Clean” is Acne-Safe: Many natural or clean-labeled ingredients (like coconut oil or algae extracts) are actually highly comedogenic.• Testing Matters: ClearSTEM prioritizes follicular biopsy testing and sensitive-skin clinical trials to ensure safety and efficacy for acne-prone consumers.• Surfacing Safe Surfactants: With improved technologies like glycolipids and phospholipids, it’s now possible to build effective non-irritating formulas without traditional PEGs or polysorbates.• Cleansing is Key: A good cleanser twice a day is foundational—especially in today’s pollution-heavy, sunscreen-drenched environment.• Biotech = The Future: Biotech ingredients offer clean, sustainable, high-performance options—but consumer education still lags behind.• Label Confusion: Terms like “non-comedogenic” or “natural” are often meaningless without standardized testing and transparency.

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5 months ago
54 minutes 57 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
From Micro-Trends to Market Domination: The AI-Powdered Future of Beauty with Marta Ponzone

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with beauty trend strategist Marta Ponzone, founder of Terra Innovation Studio. Marta unpacks the power of micro trends and how they differ from fleeting fads. She shares how brands—big and small—can detect, validate, and act on emerging signals to stay ahead in a saturated market. They dive deep into the evolving role of AI, the influence of Asian beauty formats, and how brands can balance innovation with brand integrity. If you’re in product development, marketing, or just love decoding beauty industry shifts, this is a must-listen.Takeaways:• Micro Trends ≠ TikTok Trends: True micro trends emerge from niche communities and early consumer behavior—not social media aesthetics.• AI is a Tool, Not the Answer: AI can help spot emerging themes at scale but lacks the human nuance needed for formulation feasibility, sensorial experience, and brand fit.• From Indie to Mainstream: Many trends start in indie brands or pro communities before hitting the mass market—like tubing mascaras and skin barrier repair.• Localized Insights Matter: While trends are increasingly global, local cultural nuances still affect adoption and success.• Emerging Opportunities: Cushion foundations for diverse skin tones, biotech-based skincare actives, and texture-forward formulas are areas of white space.• Consumer Closeness Wins: Innovation isn't just about new tools—it’s about deep listening, asking the right questions, and creating in collaboration with your community.

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5 months ago
59 minutes 54 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Science of Spin? Decoding Cosmetic Claims with the Experts: Guests Abhishek Panchal, Dwight Tshudy, Constancio Gonzalez Obeso, and Zach Lipsky

n this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson brings together a panel of experts in cosmetic science to explore the fine line between truth and fluff in beauty product claims. From “deep nourishment” to “gene activation,” the group dissects real marketing statements, evaluating whether they’re scientifically supported or simply slick branding. With sharp insights, playful banter, and regulatory know-how, this episode uncovers what really goes into making a claim and what consumers should look out for.Key Takeaways:• Science-based claims require measurable, testable data, not just ingredient potential or in vitro results.• Marketing often leans on vague language like “appearance,” “rebuild,” or “deep nourishment,” which lacks regulatory clarity.• Ingredient claims ≠ product claims — testing must be done in the final formula, not just on hero ingredients.• Terms like ‘gene activation’ or ‘repairs DNA’ can trigger legal scrutiny and even FDA or FTC action.• Transparency wins — brands that provide clear data and avoid misleading visuals gain consumer trust.

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5 months ago
1 hour 18 minutes 43 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Behind the Beauty: How Cosmetics Go from Lab to Launch with Eva Sandnes

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Eva Sandnes, a seasoned natural product development consultant with over 20 years of experience in cosmetic formulation. They dive deep into the complex journey of transforming a beauty concept into a market-ready product, exploring the challenges of scale-up, regulatory compliance, and ingredient selection. Eva shares her extensive expertise in emulsion chemistry, product stability, and the critical considerations brands must navigate to successfully launch a cosmetic product.Key TakeawaysProduct Development is a Long Journey• Typical cosmetic product development takes 18-36 months• Requires extensive testing, regulatory compliance, and careful scalingScale-Up Challenges• Lab batches are not representative of final industrial products• Viscosity, stability, and color can dramatically change during manufacturing• Precision equipment and careful testing are crucialRegulatory Complexity• Different global markets have varying regulatory requirements• EU regulations are particularly stringent, especially for sunscreens• Comprehensive documentation is essentialIngredient Selection Matters • Choose ingredients from reliable sources • Conduct thorough safety and toxicity testing • Consider long-term availability and market trendsTechnical Expertise is Critical• Having technical knowledge in-house or through consultation can save time and reduce risks• Understanding material compatibility and formulation nuances is key

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6 months ago
59 minutes 27 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
From Lab to Launch: The Secrets of Developing Safe and Scalable Beauty Products

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Nurit Koniak who shares her extensive experience in beauty and wellness branding, discussing how design, storytelling, and cultural context intersect to create compelling brand identities. She explores the evolution of branding in the digital age, the impact of geopolitical shifts on design, and the challenges of maintaining authenticity in a rapidly changing marketplace.


Key Takeaways:


  • Branding is an emotional bridge between commerce and culture
  • Authenticity matters more than ever in an era of information overload
  • Design reflects broader societal and political tensions
  • Digital platforms have fundamentally changed brand communication
  • AI is transforming creative processes while challenging traditional artistic roles
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6 months ago
55 minutes 38 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Green Chemistry & The Future of Beauty: Safe, Sustainable, and Effective with John Warner

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Dr. John Warner, a pioneer of green chemistry, to explore how sustainable chemistry is shaping the beauty industry. They discuss the misconceptions around “natural” and “synthetic” ingredients, the urgent need for safer formulations, and the role of green chemistry in reducing toxicity without compromising performance. With over 360 patents and decades of innovation, John shares powerful insights into how brands and formulators can integrate sustainability into their products while driving meaningful change in the industry.Key Takeaways:What Is Green Chemistry?• Green chemistry focuses on designing safer, more sustainable materials rather than just regulating existing ones.• It ensures products are non-toxic, environmentally friendly, and high-performing.Breaking the “Natural vs. Synthetic” Myth:• Consumers often assume plant-based = safe and synthetic = harmful, but that’s not always the case.• The safety of an ingredient depends on its structure, not its source.Challenges in Cosmetic Safety & Regulation:• Unlike pharmaceuticals, cosmetics aren’t tested on humans before hitting the market. • Current testing methods have limitations, making long-term safety assessments difficult.The Need for Education in Chemistry:• Most chemists are not trained to assess toxicity, leading to unintended harm in product formulations.• Universities must integrate green chemistry into their curricula to drive industry-wide change.Practical Steps for Beauty Brands & Formulators:• Focus on reducing toxic solvents and optimizing ingredient safety at the formulation stage.• Embrace incremental progress: small sustainability improvements add up over time.

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7 months ago
44 minutes 25 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
The Science of Packaging: How Design, Sustainability, and Formula Work Together

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Alexander Kwapis, VP of Innovation, Design, and Engineering at Fusion Packaging, to explore the fascinating world of cosmetic packaging. They discuss the critical relationship between formula and packaging, how sustainability is shaping the industry, and the innovative techniques used to create unique, functional, and recyclable packaging. From material compatibility to molecular recycling, this episode is a must-listen for brands looking to elevate their packaging strategy.


Key Takeaways:


Formula and Packaging Must Work Together:


Viscosity, preservation, and ingredient stability influence packaging choices.

Some formulas require airtight or airless packaging to maintain effectiveness.


The Science Behind Packaging Materials:


Different materials impact product longevity, recyclability, and consumer experience.

Barrier properties can help prevent formulas from evaporating or degrading.


Sustainability in Packaging:


Recyclability depends on factors like color, material, and decoration.

Molecular recycling is emerging as a way to infinitely recycle plastics.


Innovation in Packaging Design:


Custom packaging blends aesthetics, functionality, and sustainability.

Advances in automation have transformed packaging production, making it more efficient.

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8 months ago
56 minutes 15 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Breaking Barriers with Fermentation: A Sustainable Revolution in Skincare with Barak Dror

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer is joined by Dr. Barak Dror, co-founder and CTO of Mycelium Biomaterials, to explore the future of fermentation in cosmetics. They discuss the science behind liquid and solid-state fermentation, the role of fungi-derived ingredients, and how these sustainable methods are revolutionizing the beauty industry. From tackling microplastic pollution to creating innovative ingredients with improved biocompatibility, this conversation highlights the exciting possibilities of synthetic biology and sustainable ingredient development.Key Takeaways:Understanding Fermentation in Cosmetics:• Fermentation is an age-old process with modern applications for creating sustainable and effective ingredients.• Solid-state fermentation offers a more sustainable approach, using less water and renewable byproducts like coffee husks and fruit peels.Sustainability and Innovation: Fermentation enables upcycled ingredients and reduces reliance on petrochemicals.• Products like fungal-derived beta-glucans and chitosan demonstrate the potential for fermentation to address challenges like microplastic pollution.Consumer Perception:• Fermentation-derived ingredients resonate with consumers seeking sustainable and innovative products.• The future of cosmetics lies in leveraging biotechnology to unlock biocompatible solutions for sensitive and inflamed skin.Advice for Entrepreneurs:• Focus on solving unmet needs in the industry with scalable and sustainable technologies.• The time to innovate is now, as the cosmetics landscape is rapidly adopting fermentation technologies.

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8 months ago
53 minutes 34 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
The Business of Beauty: Transparency, Sustainability and Success with Ed Schack

In this episode ofDemystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer chats with Ed Schack, founder of EES Cosmetic Ingredients, to discuss the art and science of building a successful cosmetic ingredient business. Ed shares his inspiring journey from being a history major to a leader in the cosmetic industry, offering insights into overcoming challenges, fostering relationships, and prioritizing people in every aspect of business. Whether you're an entrepreneur, an industry veteran, or just curious about what it takes to thrive in cosmetics, this episode is packed with wisdom and actionable advice.


Key Takeaways:


Overcoming Fear and Starting a Business:


  • Making the decision to begin is often the hardest part. Stay positive, and envision success.
  • Build a business that can eventually run itself to ensure sustainability and balance.


People Over Product:


  • Prioritize relationships with customers, suppliers, and employees.
  • Transparency, loyalty, and kindness are key to long-term success.


Sustainability and Social Responsibility:


  • Partner with suppliers and manufacturers who treat workers ethically and prioritize sustainability.
  • Aligning business values with giving back strengthens relationships and culture.


Adapting in a Changing Industry:


  • Innovate through hybrid communication models like pre-sending sample kits for remote presentations.
  • Focus on natural and sustainable ingredients to meet evolving customer demands.
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8 months ago
52 minutes 32 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
From Lab to Launch: Navigating the Beauty Manufacturing Process with Amy Hart

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Amy Hart, Chief Innovation Officer at Elevation Labs, to dive into the world of cosmetic contract manufacturing. From navigating the complexities of product development to overcoming challenges in scalability, regulatory compliance, and sustainability, Amy offers invaluable insights for brands looking to partner with contract manufacturers. Whether you're launching your first product or scaling a successful line, this conversation is packed with practical advice and industry secrets. Key Takeaways: Understanding Contract Manufacturing: • Contract manufacturers (CMs) offer services ranging from R&D and formula development to full-scale production. • Transparency, quality, and compatibility are key factors when selecting a manufacturing partner. The Product Development Journey: • From ideation to pilot production, each step requires collaboration between brands and manufacturers. • Stability testing, raw material procurement, and packaging trials are critical for success. Navigating Challenges: • Raw material shortages, lead times, and scalability are persistent challenges for manufacturers and brands alike. • Effective communication and forecasting can help mitigate delays and improve efficiency. Sustainability and Innovation: • The industry is shifting toward sustainable, safe, and efficacious products. • Trends like waterless formulations and clean beauty continue to dominate consumer preferences. Advice for Brands: • Be granular in your feedback during formulation stages. • Build strong partnerships with manufacturers and stay engaged throughout the process.

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9 months ago
44 minutes 41 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
From Safety to Claims: How MoCRA is Shaping the Beauty Industry With Nyree Bekarian-Mack

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with regulatory expert and clean beauty advocate Nyree Bekarian-Mack to discuss the modernization of cosmetic regulations under MoCRA (Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act) and its impact on the beauty industry. From safety substantiation to navigating regulatory gaps, Nyree provides a deep dive into the challenges and opportunities for brands adapting to this new regulatory landscape.


Key Takeaways:


The Significance of MoCRA:

  • MoCRA marks the biggest regulatory shift for cosmetics in the U.S. since 1938, focusing on transparency, safety, and FDA authority.
  • Key changes include mandatory facility registration, product listing, adverse event reporting, and recall authority.

Gaps in U.S. Regulations:

  • Unlike the EU, the U.S. lacks prescriptive safety testing requirements, leaving brands to navigate vague guidelines.
  • The need for third-party validation and stronger oversight on raw materials and claims substantiation remains critical.


Challenges for Indie Brands:

  • Compliance with MoCRA can be expensive and complex for small brands, requiring proactive safety testing, GMP adherence, and detailed labeling.


Actionable Recommendations:

  • Work with FDA-licensed facilities.
  • Ensure robust safety and claims substantiation.
  • Monitor adverse events and stay informed about emerging regulations.



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10 months ago
48 minutes 39 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
The Science of Sunscreen: SPF, UV Rays, and Skincare Myths with Mark Chandler

In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mark Chandler, president of ACT Solutions Corp, to dive deep into the science and innovation behind sunscreen formulation. Mark, a 40-year industry veteran and expert in SPF technology, explains the differences between UVA, UVB, and UVC rays, how sun protection factor (SPF) works, and the future of sunscreen technology. Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast or industry professional, this episode is packed with insights about sun protection and anti-aging strategies.


Key Takeaways:


  • Understanding UV Rays: Learn how UVA, UVB, and UVC rays affect skin health and contribute to aging, sunburn, and DNA damage.


  • SPF Explained: Discover what SPF really means, how it’s tested, and why applying sunscreen correctly is crucial for effectiveness.


  • Inorganic vs. Organic Sunscreens: Mark discusses the differences in how mineral-based and synthetic sunscreens work, and why both are critical to broad-spectrum protection.


  • Emerging Innovations: Expect advances in sunscreen aesthetics, pollution protection, and hybrid organic-inorganic formulations.


  • Practical Tips: Get advice on choosing daily sun protection, applying sunscreen properly, and understanding how to balance aesthetics and efficacy.
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10 months ago
1 hour 1 minute 19 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
Sustainable Packaging Innovations: Insiya Jafferjee on Reducing Plastic in Cosmetics

In this episode, Jennifer interviews Insiya Jafferjee, the founder and CEO of Shellworks, a startup focused on eliminating plastic pollution through innovative and sustainable packaging solutions. They discuss the challenges and opportunities in sustainable packaging for the cosmetics industry, the materials Shellworks is pioneering, and the broader implications of consumer behavior and regulatory changes. Insiya shares insights on how brands can embrace sustainability while maintaining aesthetics and performance, paving the way for a more eco-friendly future.


Key Takeaways:


  • Sustainable Packaging Challenges: Packaging in cosmetics often involves multiple materials, making recycling difficult.


  • Innovative Materials: Shellworks’ material, Vivama, is made by microorganisms and is compostable in natural environments.


  • Consumer Behavior: Educating consumers on sustainability is crucial but requires collaboration between brands and regulators.


  • Regulatory Advances: Global treaties like the UN Plastics Pollution Treaty aim to standardize sustainable practices.


  • Future Trends: Expect increased adoption of refillable solutions, material innovation, and cohesive regulations in the coming years.


Explore this enlightening conversation about the intersection of sustainability, innovation, and cosmetics with Insiya Jafferjee.

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10 months ago
41 minutes 6 seconds

The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
The Demystifying Cosmetics podcast, hosted by industry veteran and beauty enthusiast Jennifer Cookson, creates a space for open and insightful conversations about the ever-evolving cosmetics world. At Tagra, we connect chemists, formulators, product developers, and marketers to discuss the latest trends, innovations, and strategies shaping the future of beauty. Join us as we break down technical barriers and uncover the stories and insights driving the next generation of cosmetics.