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The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
184 episodes
2 days ago
Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some hav...
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Sports
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All content for The Testpiece Podcast is the property of Testpiece and is served directly from their servers with no modification, redirects, or rehosting. The podcast is not affiliated with or endorsed by Podjoint in any way.
Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some hav...
Show more...
Sports
Episodes (20/184)
The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler! Media Mentioned: Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”Wedge Vid...
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5 days ago
1 hour 36 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard
Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?What was it like being famous when young and w...
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1 week ago
1 hour 9 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page...
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2 weeks ago
1 hour 57 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America
Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level. Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is...
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3 weeks ago
1 hour 34 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned: "Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag"Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana RaderPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you stick better to wood hol...
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1 month ago
1 hour 21 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100
Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts. Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things wrists!Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is...
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1 month ago
1 hour 35 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and BishopDoes a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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1 month ago
1 hour 47 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa
The legend himself, Chris Sharma. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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1 month ago
1 hour 27 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 'Classics' mentioned: "Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45° Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcas...
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2 months ago
1 hour 24 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach
Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16). Here's where you can find Jesse online: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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2 months ago
1 hour 43 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick’s Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game”
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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2 months ago
1 hour 29 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche
Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world. Enjoy this chat with one of greats. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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2 months ago
1 hour 42 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55...
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2 months ago
2 hours 2 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement
Ravioli Biceps! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit ou...
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3 months ago
1 hour 55 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World’s First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent)Yannick Flohe’s World’s First 8C Flash (or was it?)The Pro’s and Con’s of Pushing Things To The Absolute LimitFOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in Rocklands Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our ...
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3 months ago
1 hour 21 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens
Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up). On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers. This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ...
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3 months ago
2 hours 30 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#167 ‘Board Talk’ — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley
Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk’ podcast! Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley. Some topics covered in this episode are: Board Lords episodes 6 and 7 Recent Moon YouTube on the OG board (2010!)Are Boards Morpho?Ethics and Style on BoardsThe WORLDS...
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3 months ago
2 hours 12 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17’s, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level
Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod! Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world. Also we get into Board Lord’s Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler’s InstagramBenn Wheeler’s InstagramWheel Rock PatreonWheel rock YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Wheel_Ro...
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4 months ago
1 hour 50 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’
Good Temps is back! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Today’s episode covers: Brooke Rabatou’s FFA of Excalibur (15c)Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11)Mount Doom (V17) and the importance of aesthetics, which leads to a discussion about how our sport actually progressesMellow Rock GamesControversy around Sung Su’s sending Burden...
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4 months ago
2 hours 4 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear
Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering. Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Obe Carrion’s InstagramRampageMadrock Climbing, This Episode’s SponsorSup...
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4 months ago
1 hour 51 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some hav...