In this conversation, Marcelo shares his journey from a young surfer in El Salvador to becoming an Olympic coach and founder of Puro Surf. He discusses the importance of community, resilience, and personal growth through surfing. Marcelo emphasizes the evolution of surf culture in El Salvador and the impact of his coaching methodology, the surf sequence, on aspiring surfers. He reflects on the challenges he faced, including injuries and the transition to coaching, while maintaining a focus on giving back to the community and inspiring others.
Takeaways
Chapters
00:00 Marcelo's Surfing Journey Begins
04:26 The Transition to Coaching and Community Building
09:46 Injury and Education: A New Perspective
14:00 Resilience and Overcoming Challenges
18:58 The Surf Culture of El Salvador
22:24 Balancing Tradition and Industry Growth
27:22 The Mission of Puro Surf
31:39 Creating the Puro Surf Experience
34:41 Impacting Local Communities through Surfing
37:33 The Olympic Journey and Its Significance
42:58 The Vision Behind Puro Surf
47:17 The Journey of Building Puro Surf
55:47 Future Opportunities for Puro Surf
In this conversation, April Denny shares her journey from growing up in Marin County, California, to becoming a PhD candidate focused on human movement and performance in surfing. She discusses her experiences as a lifeguard, her transition to studying kinesiology, and her research on elite female athletes as part of the Paddle to Podium project.
April emphasizes the importance of a holistic approach to training and the need for injury prevention in surfing. She also reflects on her time in Australia, working closely with athletes and coaches, and her aspirations for the future.
Chapters
00:00 Growing Up by the Ocean
03:05 Transitioning to College Life
06:01 Exploring Kinesiology and Lifeguarding
08:55 Researching Big Wave Surfers
11:07 Journey to Graduate Studies
13:56 Lifeguarding at Ocean Beach
16:49 Training and Team Dynamics
19:50 Experiences at Kelly Slater's Wave Park
22:20 The Unique Environment of Wave Parks
27:10 The Dynamics of Surfing and Performance Improvement
32:26 Research and Education in Surfing
36:34 Navigating the PhD Journey
43:05 Cultural Insights: Surfing in Australia
48:11 Transitioning to a New Environment
51:22 Embedded Research and Athlete Support
55:19 Injury Prevention and Strength Training for Athletes
57:32 Research Focus: Preparing Female Athletes for the Olympics
01:01:23 Developing Effective Interventions for Skill Improvement
01:05:00 Challenges in Training Surfers vs. Swimmers
01:07:23 Key Findings on Stroke Dynamics and Injury Prevention
01:13:53 Community and Future Directions in Research
01:22:07 Podcast Outro.mp4
In this conversation, Jason shares his journey from academia to the military, detailing his experiences in combat and the challenges of transitioning to civilian life. He discusses the importance of finding purpose after service and highlights the mission of Operation Healing Forces, which focuses on supporting veterans and their families through retreats.
The conversation emphasizes the healing power of surfing, exploring how it fosters connection, personal challenge, and emotional growth. Jason reflects on the unique relationship with the ocean and the future of surf therapy in helping veterans navigate their post-military lives.
Links
Jason on Facebook
Information on contributing to future OHF Retreats
Takeaways
Jason transitioned from academia to the military seeking adventure.
Combat experience can lead to significant mental health challenges.
The transition from military to civilian life is often difficult.
Finding purpose after service is crucial for veterans.
Operation Healing Forces provides support through couple retreats.
Surfing serves as a powerful therapeutic tool for veterans.
The ocean offers a unique connection that aids in healing.
Surfing requires complete focus, helping to clear the mind.
Building community and relationships is essential for veterans post-service.
The future of surf therapy holds promise for veterans' healing journeys.
Chapters
00:00 From Academia to the Military: A New Path
05:05 The Impact of 9/11 on Military Careers
07:52 Transitioning from Combat to Civilian Life
14:37 Finding Purpose After Special Forces
23:22 Joining Operation Healing Forces
34:56 Creating Safe Spaces for Conversations
42:21 Personal Journeys: From Novice to Surfer
47:31 The Immersive Experience of Surfing
52:35 The Unique Challenges of Surfing
01:01:08 Future Visions for Surf Therapy Retreats
Summary
In this conversation, Kate Clements shares her journey of personal growth, self-discovery, and the creation of her travel company, Room to Roam. She discusses the healing power of surfing and ocean therapy, particularly in the context of retreats for veterans. The conversation highlights the importance of community, connection, and the joy of learning to surf later in life, emphasizing that it's never too late to embrace new challenges and experiences.
Takeaways
- Reconnecting with home can lead to personal growth.
- Traveling and experiencing new cultures enriches life.
- Creating Room to Roam was a leap of faith.
- Surfing serves as a powerful form of therapy.
- Retreats for veterans provide meaningful connections.
- Learning to surf later in life is empowering.
- The ocean offers a unique perspective on life.
- Community support enhances personal wellness journeys.
- Embracing challenges leads to joy and fulfillment.
Connection with nature is vital for mental health.
Chapters
00:00 Reconnecting with Roots
06:37 Journey of Self-Discovery
12:34 Creating a Life of Purpose
18:25 Empowering Others through Surf Therapy
29:37 Choosing the Right Path
31:05 The Humbling Experience of Learning to Surf
36:11 Surfing as a Metaphor for Life
41:50 The Power of Presence in Surfing
48:11 The Illusion of Control in Surfing
49:09 Building Community Through Surfing
51:03 Focusing on Meaningful Connections
57:40 Supporting Veterans and Strengthening Bonds
59:26 Podcast Outro.mp4
Surf Strong for Life: Unlocking the Secrets to Consistent Fitness and Mobility When I sat down to record this episode of the Surf Strong Express show, my goal was simple: to share the essential strategies and mindset shifts that have allowed me—and can help you—to maintain strength, flexibility, and overall well-being for a lifetime of surfing. Over the years, I’ve learned how to overcome the common obstacles that derail fitness routines and discovered a practical, no-frills approach to building a sustainable, surf-focused training program. Let me share these insights with you. Movement: The Foundation of Surf Fitness For me, movement is non-negotiable. But here’s the thing: it doesn’t have to be complicated. I’ve found that incorporating movement into daily life, no matter how small or simple, is the real foundation of surf fitness. It can be as straightforward as taking a walk around the block or parking further away from where you’re headed. These seemingly minor habits add up, creating a powerful ripple effect that supports more advanced training later on. Starting small and staying consistent has been my secret weapon. Breath: The Overlooked Superpower Breath work has completely transformed my approach to fitness and surfing. I didn’t realize how much of a “superpower” conscious breathing could be until I started integrating it into my day. It’s not just about enhancing surf performance (though it does that, too); it’s about using your breath to support every part of your life, from digestion to stress regulation. I’ve drawn a lot of inspiration from experts like Reese Peluso and Matteo Pistono, who have helped me deepen my daily breath practice. And honestly, it doesn’t have to be complicated—just start by taking a few intentional breaths between tasks during your day. Mobility: The Key to Longevity If there’s one thing I always tell my clients, it’s this: being able to touch your toes is more than just a party trick—it’s a key indicator of overall joint health and range of motion. For surfers, mobility isn’t just helpful; it’s essential for staying in the game long-term. Personally, I’ve learned to prioritize mobility by addressing postural imbalances and taking regular movement breaks throughout the day. Sitting too long? I get up and stretch. Feeling stiff? I do some targeted mobility work. These little actions have been game-changers for me, and they can be for you, too. Overcoming Resistance and Celebrating Progress Let’s be real—staying consistent with fitness isn’t always easy. Our primal brains are hardwired to conserve energy and avoid risk, which can make it tough to stick with a routine. I’ve learned to approach these moments of resistance with compassion. Instead of beating myself up, I celebrate the small wins—a few minutes of stretching, a short workout, or simply showing up for myself. Injuries and setbacks are part of the journey, but they don’t have to derail you. Adjust, adapt, and keep moving forward. The Journey to Lifelong Surf Fitness This episode of Surf Strong Express reflects everything I’ve come to believe about surf fitness: it’s not about perfection; it’s about consistency. By focusing on movement, breath work, and mobility—and by cultivating a mindset of self-compassion—you can unlock the secrets to lifelong surf performance. I’m on this journey alongside you, and I know that together, we can keep surfing strong for life. So, take these strategies, apply them to your own routine, and let’s keep riding the waves for decades to come.
Breath Awareness and Practical Application with Reis Peluso In this episode of the Surf Strong Show, host Greg Finch talks with Reis Peluso, a coach and educator specializing in breath awareness. Reis discusses his work with athletes and the practical applications of breath awareness in daily life, emphasizing the importance of noticing and adjusting one's breathing patterns.
They explore the concept of CO2 tolerance versus air hunger and the psychological impact of breath control.
Reis also shares insights on his Our Breath Collective community and how they integrate breath practices into various settings, including professional sports.
This episode provides valuable tips for anyone looking to understand and optimize their breathing for better performance and quality of life. 00:00 Introduction to the Surf Strong Show 00:09 Meet Reis Peluso: Breath Coach and Educator 01:05 The Importance of Breath Awareness 02:25 Practical Applications of Breath Techniques 03:36 The Role of Curiosity in Breath Work 05:11 Adapting Breath Techniques to Daily Life 09:56 Mechanisms for Breath Awareness 17:53 Understanding Breath vs. Respiration 30:34 The Breath Collective: Community and Practice 34:54 Breath Work with Professional Athletes 39:58 Conclusion and Final Thoughts
Alo Slebir discusses his training and focus during the off-season as a big wave surfer. He emphasizes the importance of training out of the water and striving to be better in order to perform well in the next winter season.
He also talks about his circuit workouts, which include a mix of CrossFit and balance work. Alo explains the difference between off-season and in-season training, with a focus on building muscle mass in the off-season and maintaining paddle muscles during the season.
He also discusses the mental and physical challenges of big wave surfing, the importance of decompressing after a big day, and the role of jiu-jitsu in his training and mindset.
Alo highlights the connection between surfing and the ocean, and the importance of staying connected to the ocean in his life. He also talks about his tow partnership with Luca Padua and the trust and communication required in that relationship.
Alo shares his experience of learning and surfing Mavericks, and the challenges and rewards of pursuing big wave surfing. In this conversation, Greg and Alo discusses the intricacies of big wave surfing and the mental and physical preparation required. He emphasizes the importance of understanding the variables involved in surfing, such as swell direction and wave size, and the constant learning process that comes with it.
Alo also highlights the lifelong pursuit of improving surfing skills and the need to remain focused and calm in challenging situations. He shares insights into the safety protocols and checklists followed before tackling big waves, as well as the importance of the Junior Lifeguard program in fostering a love for the ocean.
Emily Hightower discusses her love for outdoor activities such as skiing, hiking, bow hunting, and kayaking. She explains the concept of skinning in skiing and the unique experience of being in nature.
Greg and Emily also discuss the power of water and the importance of being present and connected to the environment. They touch on the challenges of attachment to outcomes and the need to focus on the process rather than the result.
Emily shares practical tips for staying present and detached from outcomes, including visualization and down-regulating the nervous system. In this conversation, Emily Hightower and Greg Finch discuss the importance of regulating the nervous system and the role of breath and movement in managing stress and trauma. They emphasize the need to shift our perspective on stress and view it as an evolutionary tool rather than something to be avoided. They also highlight the power of reconnecting with nature and engaging in activities like surfing to improve overall well-being.
Emily and Greg share their experiences working with first responders and military personnel and how these individuals can benefit from breathwork and movement practices. They also introduce their company, Shift, which focuses on helping individuals understand and interact with their stress physiology to optimize healing and performance.
In this conversation, Sam Bleakley discusses the power of connection in the digital age and the positive and negative aspects of technology. He emphasizes the importance of in-person interactions and the value of surfing as a global connection.
Sam also highlights the significance of compromise and conversation in addressing challenges within the surf community. He explores the role of surfing in community and activism, as well as the inclusivity of adaptive surfing.
Additionally, Sam discusses the potential of integrating music into surfing events and shares his personal journey in the world of surfing. The conversation explores the themes of following your passion, the intersection of geography and surfing. Being present and grateful, future goals and hopes for the surf community, and sustainability and balance.
In this conversation, Brian McKenzie discusses the importance of breath training and its impact on overall health and performance. He emphasizes the need to understand and manage stress in order to optimize breathing patterns.
Brian also highlights the significance of walking as a foundational exercise and shares his personal experience with overcoming fear and trauma. Overall, the conversation explores the intersection of breath, fear, and performance.
Brian and Greg discuss the importance of prioritizing self-care and personal growth. They explore the concept of reordering priorities and letting go of non-essential tasks.
Brian shares his experience of investing in himself and overcoming codependency. They also discuss the dangers of multitasking and hyperconnectivity in today's society.
The conversation delves into the impact of childhood experiences on adult behavior and the importance of breathing and self-reflection. Brian shares his insights on the power of walking and connecting with nature.
They also touch on Brian's experience working with Tim Ferriss and Laird Hamilton.
Finally, they discuss the benefits and misconceptions of heat and cold therapy, as well as Brian's training block and approach to competitions.
Scott Harrison, a photographer, shares his journey of discovering photography later in life and how it has become his passion and career. He discusses his approach to photographing landscapes, waves, and surfers, and how he balances his love for photography with his love for surfing.
Scott also talks about the importance of having a mindset that allows for financial freedom and the ability to make choices. He shares his experiences of traveling in Southeast Asia and how it influenced his perspective on wealth and financial security.
Scott emphasizes the importance of being present and embracing the unpredictability of photography and surfing.
Philip, the founder of Rise Up Retreats, discusses the evolution of his surf retreat business and the challenges and rewards of running a people-focused company. He emphasizes the importance of creating a welcoming and supportive environment for guests and the value of connection and community. Philip also shares his journey of finding balance between work and personal well-being, as well as his commitment to giving back to the community through Rise Up Kids International.
Today we welcome Troy Cole former professional soccer player and owner of E-Motion Fitness. As a fellow coach and trainer I invited Troy on to discuss how his experience as a professional athlete and coach influenced his path as he took up surfing later in life over these last few years.
We welcome Taylor Knox back to the Surf Strong Show. Today he is joined by Matt Griggs. Together they run Nature of Success retreats in different locales throughout the year.
On this episode we discuss Nature of Success, Kelee Meditation, personal performance, and the joy of building programs with friends that help others succeed.
We were lucky enough to get Taylor Knox on the show. In this episode we chat about his 16 seasons on the Pro Tour, winning the inaugural K2 big wave challenge, his knee injuries, a significant back injury he had when he was 15, and how he works through those things at that age.
Continuing now into his fifty's what he does every day to keep himself surf ready and performing at a high level. It was really great to hear the routines that he does, what he brings, his approach and how we all can benefit from learning from some of those things and then applying them to our own routines.
We also discuss The Nature of Success events he's doing with Matt Griggs. How Keele meditation has positively influenced his life and really was kind of a pivot point for him in his life.
Born and raised on the North Shore of O'ahu Jamie Sterling has been charging big waves since his teen years, is the 2011 WSL Big Wave Tour Champion, and now own and operates Jamie Sterling Surf Experiences.
We chat about his time as a Professional Surfer, what he did then and does now to prepare for big wave conditions that demand so much physical and emotional focus, and what it was like being around and learning from the likes of Jerry Lopez, The Ho brothers, Mark Foo, and Johnny Boy Gomes.
Really excited to have Surf Legend, Artist, and Musician Corky Carroll on the Surf Strong Show.
Here's a bio of Corky from his bluemango website:
The greatest competitor of California’s Golden Age and surfing’s first real pro was five-time US Surfing Champion Corky Carroll.
Corky was right in the middle of much in surfing. Surfing in front of his family's beach house, he wanted a more durable swim trunk. He approached nearby Katin Surf Shop with his request. Nancy and Walter Katin got to work and created an industry.
As a student at Huntington Beach High School, Carroll took surf safaris with good friends such as Mark Martinson, Robert August, Mickey Munoz, Billy Hamilton and Mike Doyle. When Endless Summer was released, he travelled promoting the film.
Working for Hobie Surfboards, Corky found his niche interacting with the customers instead of in the back of the shop. In the water, Corky was so promising that Hobie Alter decided to sponsor him, paying Carroll to use and promote Hobie Surfboards.
During the mid-’60s noseriding era, he was as good as anyone. He was a champion paddler with keen wave judgment and a competitive spirit that usually paid off with high-scoring performances. In 1968, he won the Surfer Poll Award as the best surfer in the world. Few disagreed. “Of everything I achieved in my surfing career, winning the Surfer Poll meant the most to me,” Carroll said. “To be named the best by the people was the greatest honor. It is one of the only trophies that I kept for my kids.”
Corky was also at the forefront of the short board evolution, making the transition from long boarding that others could not. His Mini Model was the first production shortboard in America, and his Deadly Flying Glove model furthered the evolution.
Carroll was a great contest surfer, but he was also a gutsy big-wave rider. He surfed Waimea and huge Pipeline and he was in the water at Makaha on the day Greg Noll paddled into the largest wave ever ridden in 1969, pre tow. “I only rode one wave though,” Carroll said. “It was a monster, at least 300 feet as I saw it. I also got caught inside three times that day and spent hours swimming in.”
Carroll was one of the first to convert to twin fins in 1971 and was featured in a number of surf films in the ’60s and ’70s, including MacGillivray-Freeman’s Five Summer Stories.
When competitive surfing lost some of its luster in the early ’70s, Corky Carroll reached into his grab bag of talent and diversified into an array of livelihoods. He taught himself to play the guitar and was soon in the studio producing albums of original music. He wrote several books, spent 10 years as advertising director of Surfer magazine, six years as a tennis pro and a couple of years as a ski instructor. All the while, Carroll never relinquished the surf scene. An inductee into the Surfing Hall of Fame, he now operates his surf school in Costa Rica and is a fabulous surf columnist.
Steve Gwenin will be joining us on this episode of the Surf Strong Show. We are going live! That'll be fun. Steve is an Executive Surf Life Coach and founder of Surfer's Life Club. Through his signature Work Less Surf More program he coaches senior managers and executives to re-shape their life, surfing more and living the life they envision.
Today we welcome Mike Latronic to the Surf Strong Show. Former professional surfer and team coach for Hurley and veteran big wave rider. Since 2002 he has published FreeSurf Magazine and produces BoardStories TV out of his home base on the North Shore of Oahu.