Have you ever tried pattern hacking? By which I mean, making changes to a sewing pattern to create a garment that looks slightly, or wildly, different to the original design. This episode is a wide ranging introduction to the topic. Whether you are new to this practice, or are a more seasoned ‘hacker’, by the end of this you should feel emboldened by the infinite possibilities!   Support the podcast over on Patreon! One way of thinking about pattern hacking is by breaking it down into these three approaches: Pattern-first - that is Choosing a pattern you own and considering how you can alter it to come up with a different look Style-first - that is finding inspiration for a garment from elsewhere, then looking through your patterns to find a good candidate to hack to get close to that inspiration. Frankensteining - taking two existing sewing patterns, or the parts of existing sewing patterns, and splicing them together to create a different looking garment.  My Fibre Mood Ermine/Norma Franken-garment is an example of taking the sleeve piece from one pattern and the bodice from another to create a new look. Suggested equipment for pattern hacking: Large format paper / pattern cutting or drafting paper / the dot and cross type or plain. Also consider large sheets of paper from an art shop or printing shop, the back of wide rolls of wrapping paper or rolls of paper from a business that regularly prints out plans and so on Some kind of ruler or set square (a metre or yard ruler is also super helpful) Pattern weights or pins Sharp pencils  Paper scissors Some kind of tape such as scotch, masking or washi tape Tape measure

Could you sew only with second hand fabric? No more fabric shopping, only thrifting and receiving donations. Would that feel frustrating, or would it unlock some inner creativity and resourcefulness? Space scientist and passionate maker, Rachel Kirby, sews almost exclusively within this limitation, and she shares how and why it works for her.  Support the podcast over on Patreon! Rachel Kirby can be found on her website, @fibre.and.space on Instagram and @GeoPlaneteer on Twitter.  Rachel’s self-designed Solar System jumper went viral! Rachel was inspired by Samantha @pippy_eve on Instagram to try her hand at sewing her first garment by using the Justine skirt pattern by Ready to Sew and some cotton fabric she found at an op shop. The only piece of from-the-bolt fabric Rachel has used for herself was to make some Arenite pants, pattern by Sew Liberated.  Image source: Rachel Kirby Listen to Episode 69: Making Mindfully with Judy Williment-Ross. Rachel’s TNT (‘tried and tested’, or ‘tried and true’) patterns: Hinterland dress pattern by Sew Liberated Gilbert top pattern by Helen’s Closet  Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet  Image source: Rachel Kirby

A garment project that fails because it’s made from unsuitable fabric is both heartbreaking and costly. But navigating the selection available in fabric shops and online can feel overwhelming, particularly if you’re new to garment sewing, or have recently returned after some years. So in this solo episode, we’re going back to the basics of fabric. We’ll be laying the foundations on which to build our knowledge of fabric types, and what garment styles each fabric is suitable for.  Support the podcast over on Patreon! The downloadable PDF version of this episode, which includes lots of additional information, tips and images, can be found in the CYT online shop.  

How does the space we create in affect the resources we collect, and vice versa? And why did the Ikea look become the default, acceptable aesthetic for spaces dedicated to sewing? Textile activist Shams el-Din Rogers and I have a fun and thought-provoking conversation about fabric stashes, storage and space. As always, Shams brings her insight and wisdom as we explore many of the implications of these topics as they relate to sustainability, and we compare notes as an American and a European.  Support the podcast over on Patreon! Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers. Listen to her on other episodes of CYT: Ep.#32: Textile Activism with Shams el-Din Rogers  Ep.#49: Sewing as Art and Political Action with Shams el-Din Rogers Ep. #142: Values Based Spending and Making with Sham el-Din Rogers Ep. #153: The Provenance of Materials and Techniques - Shams with Allie Davies I also highly recommend checking out Shams’ episode on Stitch Please: the Black Women Stitch podcast, Ep.#123: Don’t Trash it! Sew it!: Sustainable Creativity with Shams el-Din Rogers.  Explore ‘Works in Progress Toronto’ via their website and on Instagram @works.in.progress.to. Instagram based contests that Shams is participating in: #lastsewiststanding created by @miss.taeschli. #whole30fabricchallenge created by @pinkmimosabyjacinta. Textile Museum of Canada is in Toronto and has a truly epic-looking shop! Shams recently bought some issues of Tauko magazine. Check out two blog posts I made including round-ups of free kid’s patterns: My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns  Fab Free Kids’ Patterns for 6 and Up. Listen to the episodes Shams referenced about sewing for and with kids: Ep.#11: Kids Vs. Sewing  Ep.#33: Encouraging Kids to Sew I use the the basic version of the Trello app to catalogue and manage my fabric stash and project ideas.  Shams’ goal is based on the 2-door Pax wardrobes made by Ikea.

A new mending book is about to land in bookshops around the globe, and it’s something really special. It’s the creation of regular CYT guest and mending expert, Jeanna Wigger, and super experienced mending volunteer and organiser, Mary Morton. In this episode, we’re going to hear all about how this excellent book came to be written by two women who had never even met each other, and exactly what makes ‘Stitch it, Don’t Ditch it’ so significant in the mending book genre.  Support the podcast over on Patreon! Jeanna Wigger can be found @thepeoplesmending on Instagram. Jeanna also has an excellent Substack.  Mary Morton can be found @edinburghstreetstitchers and @mvm13 on Instagram Listen to my previous conversations with Jeanna: Ep. #115: Winter of Care and Repair with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #132: A Season of Mending with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #135: How to Triage Your Mends with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #163: How to Effect Change This Winter with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #190: The Four Tendencies and Sewing with Jeanna, Kim & Lise  Mary volunteers at the Shrub Coop, a ZW charity based in Edinburgh, Scotland (@shrubcoop on Instagram).  Find and pre-order their new book, ‘Stitch it, Don't Ditch it’: Suzi Warren is the creator of the Street Stitching movement: Mary was a guest of the long running Woman´s Hour BBC radio show.  Mary and Jeanna regularly recommend the ‘Repair What You Wear’ website to would-be menders. Also @RepairWhatYouWear on YouTube.  They made the following videos mentioned in the episode: A Guide to Teaching Mending Skills How to thread a needle (right handed) How to thread a needle (left handed)

How do you respond to expectations? How easy is it for you to get things done, both the things that are asked of you, and the things you want to achieve yourself? And how does that play out in your sewing and creative life? We’re taking a deep dive into the Four Tendencies framework devised by writer and podcaster, Gretchen Rubin. Understanding how we, and those around us operate, can be so useful in achieving our goals. We look at each of the tendencies and talk to a well-known previous CYT guest about how their tendency impacts their crafting. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Read about the Four Tendencies and take the Four Tendencies Quiz, created by Gretchen Rubin. My Obliger guest is Jeanna Wigger (@thepeoplesmending on Instagram). Jeanna also has an excellent Substack. Listen to my previous conversations with Jeanna:Ep. #115: Winter of Care and Repair with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #132: A Season of Mending with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #135: How to Triage Your Mends with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #163: How to Effect Change This Winter with Jeanna WiggerJeanna referenced ‘Better Than Before’, Gretchen’s book about habit change:My Questioner guest is Kim Witten, visit her website and follow her on Instagram (@witten.kim). Listen to my previous conversation with Kim:Ep. #71: Making Personal Manifestos with Kim Witten Ep. #91: Self Knowledge for Sewing Success with Kim Witten Ep. #92: Self Coaching for Sewing Success with Kim Witten Ep. #110: Zoe & Kim go to the Stitch Festival Ep. #162: How to Solve Your Next Sewing Problem with Kim WittenSign up to Kim’s excellent, free, weekly newsletter. Learn more about the Pomodoro productivity technique on the Undo podcast:Ep. #4: The tomato of productivity - the Pomodoro TechniqueMy Rebel guest is Lise Bauer, who posts about her personal projects on Instagram @miss.taeschli, and hosts the Last Sewist Standing and other community projects via @the.craft.camp on Instagram.Listen to my previous conversation with Lise:Ep. #118: Last Sewist Standing with Lise Bauer Ep. #164: Sewing Wins and Fails with Lise & Meg Ep. #189: Are Zoe & Lise Still in Last Sewist Standing?

Last Sewist Standing, for those who may be new to this podcast, is the no-buy sewing supplies challenge created by Lise Bauer. The challenge is in its fifth year, and 2025 is my second time participating. It’s time for a catch up with Lise, and to answer the question that no one is asking: are Lise and myself still in the running???Support the podcast over on Patreon!Find my new podcast ‘Can I Dig It? Food Growing for Busy People’ wherever you listen to podcasts!Visit the CIDI Patreon which you can JOIN FOR FREE!!!!!Find Lise and the Last Sewist Standing challenge updates at @the.craft.camp on Instagram. Check out Lise’s personal account @miss.taeschli on Instagram.View the IG posts relating to the #lastsewiststanding challenge.Listen to Lise discuss the challenge in the previous episode:Ep. #118: Last Sewist Standing with Lise BauerI bought some excellent pre-loved fabric from the @destash4palestine account. Destash for palestineI bought some Fluro Indian Dobby Cotton fabric from Merchant & Mills:I intend to make a top using the Vali Top & Dress pattern by Pattern Fantastique (available in paper form from Fabric Godmother in the UK). I’m seriously considering buying the Palazzo Pants pattern by Sasha Starlight. 

Have you ever made a garment that you thought you were going to love, but ended up rarely reaching for it because you’ve realised that the colours drains you, or somehow makes you feel meh? It’s so disheartening when that happens. So this week I’m talking to stylist and colour consultant, Numba Pinkerton, about how to make successful colour choices for our garment projects, and the rest of our wardrobes. Plus, Numba tells us why most of us should remove the black holes from our clothing selections!Support the podcast over on Patreon!Find out more about Numba’s work at her website, and you can follow her on Instagram (@stylemeflawless). You can sign up to Numba’s weekly newsletter at the bottom of the homepage on her website, and check out her e-book, ‘The No Black Project’. If you are interested in studying colour analysis, Numba recommends checking out the London College of Style which offers an online Advanced Diploma in Colour Analysis for Creatives. 

How do I resist temptation whilst working in a fabric shop? Do I feel conflicted working for a fabric company whilst also personally promoting a reduction in consumption? Just two of the fun and occasionally spicy questions posed to me when I was invited to chat with attendees in the Virtual Sewing Room at the beginning of the year.Support the podcast over on Patreon!My blouse that I rarely wear because I feel the base colour doesn’t look good on me:Learn about the Last Sewist Standing challenge: Ep. #118: Last Sewist Standing with Lise BauerThe Whole 30 Fabric Challenge is hosted by @pinkmimosabyjacinta. We heard about the Five Fabrics rule in:Ep. #179: The Five Fabrics Rule with Judith StaleyYet again, I mentioned the Four Tendencies framework devised by Gretchen Rubin. The discussion about deadstock fabrics:Ep. #151: Explaining Deadstock Fabric with The New Craft HouseCan we reduce consumption whilst still supporting small business?:Ep. #143: No Small Business on a Dead PlanetAn alternative way to be a small business in the sewing industry:Ep. #156: How to Run and Ethical Textiles Shop with Bevan O’DalyMy response to one particularly spicy email:Ep. #107: Sewing is PoliticalRead more about B Corp Certification for businesses. 

What do sewing machine repair and servicing professionals do that you can’t do yourself at home? And what CAN you do at home to make problems with your machine less likely? And what noises coming from your machine should you definitely NOT ignore? These are just some of the many questions that sewing machine technician, Bizz McKilligan, answers for us today. I first spoke to Bizz over a year ago when she’d just started up her sustainability-focused sewing store, The Green Thimble. She gives us an update on how it’s going and what she’s learnt over that time.   Support the podcast over on Patreon!You can learn online about sewing machine maintenance and repair via Sewing Doc Academy. Bizz McKilligan in her self-made hoodie!:Bizz McKilligan is the owner of The Green Thimble, an online and bricks and mortar sewing shop in Victoria, Canada, that helps to recirculate existing sewing resources. Here’s their new logo:Follow them on Instagram @thegreenthimble.ca.Listen to Bizz’s first appearance on CYT:Ep. #120: How to care for your sewing machine with Bizz McKilliganIf you rely on a needle threader but your machine’s one keeps breaking, Bizz recommends purchasing an external needle threader like this one:Check out Bizz’s incredible self made knit dress that she made for, and wore at, a Frocktails event:

For most of us who sew our own clothes, basic garment repairs are not often a huge challenge. However, encountering knit items that are thinning or have holes? That can feel like a whole other ball game, especially if you’re not a knitter. In this episode professional repairer, educator and author, Skye Pennant, teaches us our scotch darn from our honeycomb darn, and shares her sometimes controversial opinions on the best type of threads to use for mending. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Photo credit: Kim LightbodySkye Pennant created Slow Stitch Club as a focus for her mending activities and business. Find the website, Instagram (@slowstitchclub), YouTube channel and the Slow Stitch Club Patreon. Listen to Skye on last week’s episode:Ep. #184: Mending and Overcoming Perfectionism with Skye PennantSkye wrote a book! ‘Well Worn: visible mending for the clothes you love’  is available through her website and elsewhere:Some examples of knitwear repairs by Skye:On Skye’s advice, I successfully mended my socks using the honeycomb darn technique:

Believing that we won’t be great at something can hold some of us back from giving it a go in the first place. And for those who are confirmed perfectionists, this belief can be even more of a barrier. Skye Pennant, creator of Slow Stitch Club, is a professional mender, mending educator and author, but suffers daily with perfectionism and imposter syndrome. If you experience those tendencies yourself, Skye has some wonderful advice about how to overcome them and become the visible mender you always hoped you’d be! Support the podcast over on Patreon!Skye Pennant created Slow Stitch Club as a focus for her mending activities and business. Find the website, Instagram (@slowstitchclub), YouTube channel and the Slow Stitch Club Patreon. The Seam is a UK-based company that matches menders with clients requiring repairs for their item/s. Skye wrote a book! ‘Well Worn: visible mending for the clothes you love’  is available through her website and elsewhere:A chance discovery of a speed weave darning loom in a junk shop kicked off Skye’s fascination with mending:Skye’s favourite mending book is ‘Mend it!: A Complete Guide to Clothes Repair’ by Maureen Goldsworthy, published in 1980.Millie Moon is a fabric and haberdashery shop in Frome, Somerset, UK, that has been a big supporter of Skye and her work.  

We’ve been talking about reducing our fabric stashes so we can feel well stocked, but not overwhelmed. But once we’ve passed on the pieces of fabric that we honestly can’t see ourselves sewing, what are we meant to do with what’s left? How can we store it so that its contents are both accessible AND inspiring to us? I’ve developed an organisation method that I call the Seasonal Stash System. In this episode, I explain how it works so you can weigh up if it’s something that might work for you. Support the podcast over on Patreon!(image source: Mel Poole via Unsplash)**CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE FREE DOWNLOADABLE PDF VERSION OF THIS GUIDE**

During the last few episodes we’ve been talking about reducing our fabric stashes: the idea being that our collection would then make us feel well stocked but not encumbered. But once you’ve selected the pieces that you can’t honestly see yourself sewing, what are you meant to do with them? There are a number of options, but fabric swaps have got to be one of the most fun AND most ethical ways of passing on what you no longer want. You might even pick up some new-to-you fabric that you’re inspired by, or even a couple of new sewing buddies! But if there aren’t any fabric swaps taking place in your location already, it might be on you to organise one. My guest this week, Nike Baruwa, is a maker who recently did just that for the very first time. I spoke with Nike before and after her fabric swap, and she shares what planning and considerations went into hers, and we’ll hear how it actually went! If you’re interested, or even on the fence, about planning a fabric swap, let Nike and this episode be your guide. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Follow Nike on Instagram (@sewlonglane). Nike was inspired to organise a fabric swap after visiting the London Destash Fabric Swap. Listen to the episode I made at that event:Ep. #144: London Destash Fabric Swap 2024The London Destash Fabric Swap was organised by Sarah from Olive Road London and Yvette from Stash Hub app.Sarah made a helpful YouTube video about how to organise a fabric swap. To help create connection and community between the attendees of her fabric swap, Nike created the hashtag #rotherhtithefabricswap.To get on Nike’s mailing list to hear about next year’s (and any other) event. Check out some photos taken at Nike’s fabric swap:

How do you feel about your fabric collection? If there are any uncomfortable feelings that are preventing you from feeling excited and inspired by what you have, it might be time to consciously reduce how much you own. In Episode #180, we heard from a bunch of lovely CYT listeners who have successfully reduced their fabric stashes, and they shared what mindset shifts and practical steps worked for them. This episode is another installment of the same. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Image source: Ekaterina Grosheva via Unsplash)Listen to Part 1:Ep. #180: Secrets of Successful Destashing, Part 1 Huge thanks to Lindsay Ashworth Fraser (@lindsayashworthfraser on Instagram) for voicing some of the submissions.

Fabric collections elicit all sorts of feelings. Ideally, they're a source of inspiration that gets our creative juices flowing. But for some of us, especially when the amount we own is out of sync with the speed at which we sew, we might grow to feel uncomfortable, embarrassed or even guilty about the resources we’ve accumulated. This episode is Part 1 of a practical deep dive into HOW to do it, so you can reach a point where your fabric stash feels well stocked but NOT overwhelmed. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Image source: Ekaterina Grosheva via Unsplash)Huge thanks to Lindsay Ashworth Fraser (@lindsayashworthfraser on Instagram) for voicing some of the submissions.

As makers, we need materials to create with. And a love of beautiful textiles is often part of why we got into sewing in the first place. But as residents of a planet experiencing a climate and ecological crisis, we need to be mindful of what we’re consuming and how much. So is there a way to indulge in fabric purchasing that’s also inline with what’s best for our planet? My guest this week, Judith Staley, has recently implemented a system for herself that is backed by research called the rule of five, and it could be the answer for all of us! We also talk about Judith’s personal challenge to track everything she wore in 2024, and she shares what surprising and valuable insights she gleaned from it. Support the podcast over on Patreon!You can follow Judith on Instagram (@judithroaslind).Judith founded and co-hosted the @sewover50 account. Listen to Judith’s first appearance on Check Your Thread:Ep. #12: Sew Over 50 with Judith StaleyJudith is involved in The Water of Leith Conservation Trust. Read more about the Rule of Five as invented/interpretted by Tiffanie Darke. Judith discovered the concept via Gemma Metheringham’s excellent IG account, @the_elephant_in_my_wardrobe.The WRAP NGO is an excellent source of information about the impact of consumption, and how we can move towards a circular economy. The Hot Or Cool Institute is the source of the research that informed the Rule of Five. Read more about Judith’s interpretation of the Rule of Five. One tactic for reducing your fabric stash is to participate in the Last Sewist Standing challenge, invented by Lise Bauer. Judith makes most of her fabric purchases at Merchant & Mills. Hear from Tiffanie Darke about the Rule of Five on this podcast:Ep. 4, Season 2 of The Enoughness - Tiffanie Darke: How to be in fashion now, finding purpose, the joy of being less greedy. Judith also volunteers at The Remakery in Edinburgh. Previous-guest, Wendy Ward (@thatwendyward), is doing interesting work tracking the frequency of wear of her garments.Check out the 1908 diary (@the1908diary), an account run by Louise (@theknitnurse).Judith’s quarterly wardrobe tracking updates were posted to Instagram on:2nd April 2024 1st July 2024 1st October 2024 2nd January 2025Judith’s method for recording her garment wears:Read the article ‘Forget Fitness Tracking: Wardrobe Tracking is All the Rage in 2024’ by Emily Chan for Vogue, 21st January 2024. 

Those of us who make our own clothes know that taking the time to make a toile or muslin, and altering our sewing patterns to fit our own bodies are steps we ought to take. We know that they’ll result in better fitting garments that we’ll want to wear more often. But these steps can feel like huge hurdles when you don’t know what to do with a toile or muslin once you’ve made it. Drafting and fitting expert, Kate Roberts from Project Patterns, joins us again to answer a ton of questions that will lift the lid on the whole process. By the end of this episode, I all but guarantee that you will have the confidence to give fitting a go. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Find Kate’s business, Project Patterns, via her website, on Instagram @projectpatterns and also on YouTube.Listen to Kate’s previous episode on CYT, Ep. #95: Refining Fit with Kate Roberts Ep. #96: Pattern Fitting Q&A with Kate RobertsKate’s preferred ruler for drafting and pattern alteration is a pattern master:Mine is a large set square!Kate would describe a tracing wheel as a ‘nice to have’ piece of equipment.Dot and cross / spot and cross pattern paper can be bought on large rolls making it pretty inexpensive per metre. Bella Loves Patterns is a brand that offers two height options for all styles, which might be a handy starting point for those who always have to alter the length of the sewing patterns they wish to make. For tall sewers, Sew DIY offers patterns drafted to fit a 5ft 10” body. Find out everything about Kate’s community Membership options!

Once again, it’s time to consider participating in Me-Made-May, the annual wardrobe challenge I accidentally started 16 years ago. This episode is a super quick explainer, or refresher, on what the challenge is all about and how you can participate. Support the podcast over on Patreon!For a lengthier, fuller explanation of the challenge, what it is, what it isn’t, how to participate and why you might want to, listen to:Ep. #84: What is Me-Made-May?Visit this page if you’d like to learn more about the Me-Made-May workbook:

I’m guessing that there are at least a few garments in your wardrobe that fit you ok, but you’ve kind of fallen out of love with. Or maybe you fancy injecting even more of your personality and style into your handmade wardrobe. This week I’m bringing you a conversation with legendary sewing and craft teacher, Cal Patch. Cal shares heaps of tips, tricks and info on how you could go about embellishing your clothes to create a deeper connection to the items you own. Support the podcast over on Patreon!Find out more about Cal via her website and on Instagram (@hodgepodgefarm)One of my first encounters with Cal was via her book, ‘Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified’:I thoroughly recommend you listen to these other episodes of podcasts that feature Cal:Ep. #90 of Making Conversation: Color - Discovering your craft with Cal Patch Ep. #63 of Pattern Shift: Taking Yourself Seriously as a Business Owner with Cal PatchNew for 2025 is Cal’s year-long virtual class, the Artful Garment.Learn more about the Print Gocco home-printing set.Unfortunately not currently available, a screen printing kit by Bobbinhood is what I occasionally use to embellish sewing projects. Watch the ‘One Stitch, Every Size’ videos by The Stitchery on the different effects you can get using different embroidery threads and thicknesses. If you haven’t already, listen to:Ep. #173: Quilting Through Burnout with Radha Weaver Find Radha’s Thrift Your Fabric map on her website.Check out Cal´s Hack Club.