Welcome special guest Paul 'Huffy' Houghoughi! In this episode Tyler, Paul, and Collin talk about wrist pain in climbers. They cover the most common findings and injuries, what to do about them for rehab, and how to train more thoughtfully to best reduce the risks associated with wrist pain, including the TFCC injury. Enjoy! To listen to an additional 50 minutes of this episode please follow us on Patreon to gain access to this full episode and the entire Climbing Science Podcast library! Sup...
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Welcome special guest Paul 'Huffy' Houghoughi! In this episode Tyler, Paul, and Collin talk about wrist pain in climbers. They cover the most common findings and injuries, what to do about them for rehab, and how to train more thoughtfully to best reduce the risks associated with wrist pain, including the TFCC injury. Enjoy! To listen to an additional 50 minutes of this episode please follow us on Patreon to gain access to this full episode and the entire Climbing Science Podcast library! Sup...
New Thoughts on Finger Strength: Assessments and Training Updated
Camp 4 Performance Podcast
48 minutes
3 years ago
New Thoughts on Finger Strength: Assessments and Training Updated
Dr. Tyler Nelson has been assessing finger strength for many years now. After some continuing education he recently went through a new light bulb flashed over his head. This light bulb leads to an addition on the Camp 4 Performance Assessment to identify the threshold of your muscle's peak recruitment. This is different from your maximal loadable weight that you can hang with on your fingers. Understanding this difference leads to more effective strength training with less fatigue to your bod...
Camp 4 Performance Podcast
Welcome special guest Paul 'Huffy' Houghoughi! In this episode Tyler, Paul, and Collin talk about wrist pain in climbers. They cover the most common findings and injuries, what to do about them for rehab, and how to train more thoughtfully to best reduce the risks associated with wrist pain, including the TFCC injury. Enjoy! To listen to an additional 50 minutes of this episode please follow us on Patreon to gain access to this full episode and the entire Climbing Science Podcast library! Sup...
