In this final episode of my exclusive interview with Kieran McCarthy, director of Warstki and curator of Faberge in London: Romance to Revolution at the V&A Museum, we discuss the utterly extraordinary circumstances that led him to discover the long lost "Third Imperial Easter Egg" by Fabergé. It had originally been given by Tsar Alexander III to his wife, Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, for Easter in 1887. Kieran describes what is thought to have happened to the egg from the time it was confiscated and taken from the Imperial Cabinet by the Bolsheviks in 1917, to being acquired by Wartski for a private collector from the home of a scrap metal merchant in the USA in 2014.
We also talk about the other two missing eggs that are thought to still exist and which are hidden/ lost somewhere.
Listen to the end and you will hear us discuss the role Faberge had in the fall of the Romanovs.
www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/faberge
In the second part of my exclusive interview with Kieran McCarthy - organised in collaboration with the V&A Museum and recorded in London in October 2021 - we discuss Faberge's firm entry into English society with, firstly an office in London and then a standalone store.
The boutique at 173 Bond Street became the home away from home for the Russian emigré community, many of whom had escaped their motherland in the early 1900s. Grand Duke Michael Mikhailovich, grandson of Emperor Nicholas I would salute the portraits of the Tsar and Tsarina that hung on the walls in the London salon. And the many American heiresses, who had married into English aristocracy, would spend afternoons buying gifts to send back to their motherland. In fact Feodorowna Lady Alington (herself named after the name taken by Russian Tsarinas on marriage) proclaimed that all guests at her Christmas parties must exchange gifts from Faberge!
Of course one of the reasons that Faberge opened in London and not Paris, was thanks to the British Royal Family, already ardent supporters of the St Petersburg goldsmiths. Queen Alexandra, sister to the Dowager Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, had began a formidable collection whilst Princess of Wales - much of which had been gifted by her Russian relatives. Indeed her sister Maria Feodorovna was so annoyed that Faberge had opened in London that she famously said “Now that that silly Fabergé has his shop in London, you have everything, and I can’t send you anything new, so I am furious.”
I do hope that you enjoy this fabulous second episode with the inimitable Kieran and come back for the last episode - his remarkable discovery of one of the missing Imperial Eggs.
In this episode I speak with Susan Foster - one of the most talented independent jewellers on the island of Manhattan, as well as a dedicated philanthropist.
Susan grew up in East Hampton, surrounded by creative spirit and flair. Jackson Pollock’s house and the studio of Dutch American abstract impressionist, Willem de Kooning, proved an important influence in her childhood; and consequently her career. Her colourful upbringing led her to study ancient art and architecture at UCLA, followed by apprenticeships with European goldsmiths, finally finishing her schooling at the Gemology Institute of America.
Susan’s excellent training and technological prowess provides the impeccable foundation for all her jewellery designs. Influenced and inspired by current fashion, she ensures that her jewels reflect the trends whilst still remaining impeccably classical. She is internationally adored by editors and stylists alike, Carol Woolton (Vogue UK executive fashion director and jewellery author includes Susan in her latest book). And Susan's work also sets major worldwide jewellery trends themselves: diamond slices, the rebirth of chandelier earrings and buzz around oversized cocktail rings.
Susan has a huge private client base, with her designs being stocked around the world, from London to LA, New York to Moscow. Her pieces are worn by celebrities on every red carpet possible, including the gorgeous Kate Hudson. Alex Shulman was gifted a pair of earrings on her retirement from Vogue UK by Conde Nast owner - Si Newhouse.
In what free time Susan has - she is a philanthropist, founding A Place to be(ad) Me. The foundation is an artistic safe haven for children and young teenagers from home environments experiencing upheaval, such as a divorce, separation, domestic violence, or other traumatic events. They learn how to make jewellery, and the mere experience of beading helps them express themselves.
I hope that you enjoy this episode.
www.aplacetobeme.org
@susanfoster
In this episode, recorded remotely in early August, I speak with Kate Flitcroft - one of the incredible jewellery experts on the iconic UK BBC programme, The Antiques Roadshow.
Kate, who is now part of the jewellery team at Bonhams, divulges what goes on behind the scenes, some of the amazing pieces of jewellery that she has discovered on the show and what it is like to film in some of the country's most spectacular stately homes and gardens.
This episode is in memory of my father, Mark Goodbody, who died earlier this week (7th Sept 2021) and who loved the AR so much that he would more often than not disturb bedtime with my babies, to tell me to turn the show on as there was an exquisite piece of jewellery to look at. Of course I was probably watching it too! The show has been a family favourite for as long as I can remember - my mother wouldn't even let us talk during it!
To donate to my podcast please do visit the link below. Thank you.
https://ko-fi.com/thejewellerian
Today, Saturday 12th June 2021, is Her Majesty the Queen's official birthday - yes, she has two!
In this episode, I discuss some of her early brooches - given to her at some of her early royal engagements.
I do hope that you enjoy this short Birthday episode and go to my website/ Instagram for photographs.
@josiegoodbody
In this episode I speak with the authors of BEYOND FABERGE, the encyclopaedic book on Russian jewels, Marie Betteley and David Schimmelpennick Van der Oye.
We talk about how Vladimir the Great introduced Christianity to Russia in the 10th Century and thereby importing, from Constantinople, the most innovative goldsmithing and jewellery techniques, which paved the way to the Russian jewels we know today. We learn how, centuries later, the St Petersburg jewellers such as Pauzié, Carl Blank, Bolin, Carl Hahn created an Imperial Jewel Collection like no other, way before Faberge made that first Easter egg in 1885. We hear how Catherine the Great's Coronation Crown is not only set with 5000 diamonds and 75 natural pearls but the largest ever spinel to be mined - weighing 398 carats; the crown weighed five pounds has was worn by every Tsar thereafter.
Marie also explains the difference types of enamelling and the difference between the jewellers of St Petersburg and those of Moscow. David adds in the historical context and explains why the Revolution was inevitable.
I hope that you enjoy this fascinating subject as much as I do!
Images available on my Instagram @josiegoodbody and Marie's @mariebetteley
And my website www.josiegoodbody.com
Book available to buy on Amazon
Produced by Tom Jobling
In this episode I speak with this inimitable icon of British jewellery and silverware about his fascinating career, from his first job documenting silver at Barnard's in Hatton Gardens, to selling his design at smart Chelsea dinners, his incredible exhibition at The Royal Academy of Arts in 2007 and his important work with the jewellery designers of tomorrow, part of his Gilded Youth initiative.
Follow on Instagram @officialtheofennell for more incredible jewellery photography, @josiegoodbody to see mine for this podcast.
www.josiegoodbody.com
Please do review and subscribe if you enjoy The Jewellerian
In this episode, I speak with Dr Sharon Novak, jewellery collection curator, private client and brand advisor, about her fascinating career.
We talk luxury goods and why, in particular, high jewellery.
She tells us how to build a collection - your intention for the collection and your specifics for inclusion in the collection. Travelling the world for jewels. Buying at auction. And teaching jewellery and gemstones to us all over Instagram, and her complimentary Zoom classes of kids on gemmology.
I hope that you enjoy this episode and my super guest, with her endless energy and enthusiasm for the world of jewels.
To find Dr Sharon Novak on Instagram - Follow @jewelryathenaeum
In this episode I speak with Eddie LeVian, ninth generation of the family jewellers of Le Vian.
He tells the wonderful tale of his ancestors, the Levys, who in the 1700s guarded the Shah of Persia's treasures; which included the Koh-I-Noor and how the Shah took it from a Mughal emperor of India. He also talks about the beautiful elephant on the episode cover, set with hundreds of Persian turquoise cabochons and how Le Vian famously made Chocolate Diamonds the delicious treat they are today!
Le Vian's jewellery, based out of NYC, is sold all around the world.
In 2019 the brand held an event at the Tower of London, home of the Koh-I-Noor, to celebrate ten years of being in the UK - sold at Ernest Jones.
Go to my instagram @josiegoodbody for more pictures of beautiful jewels by Le Vian.
In this episode, entitled 'Coco Chanel's Diamonds', I speak with Sarah Duncan, Head of Jewellery at Chiswick Auction House in London.
We talk about, Bijoux de Diamants, the one and only collection of real diamond jewellery that Gabrielle Chanel herself created in 1932, in collaboration with the De Beers endorsed, Guild of Diamond Merchants.
For someone who had hitherto criticised the "ostentatious glitter of real jewellery" and designed only costume jewellery "because it was devoid of arrogance in an era of overly easy luxury", she now declared that she wanted to "cover women in constellations" and "chose diamonds because they hold the greatest value within the smallest volume".
What changed her mind?
For more pictures of the jewels go to my Instagram @josiegoodbody or www.josiegoodbody.com
Follow Sarah Duncan on Instagram @sarah_j_duncan
In this episode, entitled Plastic Fantastic after her latest collection, I speak with jewellery designer Tessa Packard.
Tessa has innovatively upcycled lucite to create the fittings, in which are set beautiful gemstones that both clash and complement the bold coloured plastic shapes and forms, of the pieces of fine jewellery.
Plastic Fantastic is inspired by the glamour of the 1950s pool party, with its sheeny neon glossiness.
Tessa and I also discuss the use of plastic in costume jewellery since its invention in 1907.
I can't wait for you to fall in love with these pieces that you can see by clicking www.tessapackard.com or on Tessa's Instagram @tessapackardlondon
@josiegoodbody
Today, jewellery historian and lecturer, Vanessa Cron talks about the spectacular sparkles of the Belle Epoque.
The Belle Epoque of Continental Europe, The Edwardian Era of England and The Gilded Age of America was a period of frivolity and excess - seen in enormously luxurious houses, parties and jewels.
The Court of Versailles and Queen Marie Antoinette were sought as inspiration for the years 1890 to 1900s and ribbons, garlands and florals were interpreted in decadent white jewels - a predominance of diamonds and pearls set in platinum - which were worn to display the wealth of the wearer, or indeed her husband!
Nothing was too much and Queen Alexandra with her diamond encrusted dog collars, strands of diamonds and pearls, and spectacular tiaras was the epitome, indeed the 'influencer', of the era.
Listen to Vanessa describe an era never to be seen again.
Pictures on my Instagram @josiegoodbody.
Find Vanessa on Instagram @jewelsandthegang
Produced by Tom Jobling at Mill Farm Music.
Today on the day of HRH the Duke of Edinburgh's funeral - I am releasing a short podcast on his little known role as a jewellery designer of three significant pieces that he gave Her Majesty the Queen.
You can view images of the pieces on my instagram @josiegoodbody as well as the full transcript of the podcast on my website www.josiegoodbody.com
To view the Antrobus Collection, jewels inspired by the original designs by the Duke of Edinburgh at George Pragnell jewellers click here
Podcast produced by Tom Jobling at Mill Farm.
In today's episode I speak with Emily Barber, Jewellery Director of Bonhams UK.
Tune in to hear of her meticulous journey to authenticate the extraordinarily beautiful Hope Spinel. Bonhams sold the jewel, set as a brooch surrounded by diamonds, in September 2015 for three diamonds its estimate at just under a million pounds/ £1m! It was last sold 98 years previously for £1,060 – the equivalent of £80,000 in today's money.
The Hope Spinel was a sister stone to the Hope Diamond: both part of the greatest ever private gem collection belonging to Henry Philip Hope.
The French mineralogist René Just Haüy described Hope as "one of the most distinguished patrons of the arts of his time." When he died in 1839, his collection was viewed as "...one of most perfect collections of diamonds and precious stones that has, perhaps, ever been possessed by a private individual...".
We also talk about other incredible jewels that Emily has sold during her 17 years at the auction house. And some tips on how to become to a jewellery specialist, for those wondering how on earth you can handle such exquisite pieces of jewellery and gems.
@gemilybarber
https://www.bonhams.com/press_release/20045/ Hope Spinel post sale press release.
Pictures on @josiegoodbody and www.josiegoodbody.com
Just in time for Easter - I am talking with Sophie Law, a Bonhams Russian expert and Faberge Egg aficionado, oh yes - and fellow author.
Tune in to learn everything about the most beautiful eggs in the world. Including the extraordinary story of a missing egg that was almost melted down, but instead proven to be Faberge - and sold for £20m! And one of the Queen's exquisite eggs which forever had been thought to be by Boucheron, but instead was a Tsar Imperial Faberge Egg. Why Tsar Alexander III decided to start this tantalizing tradition of giving his wife Tsarina Maria Feodorovna an Easter by Faberge in 1885, and how they perhaps started to symbolise the extravagance of the Romanovs, and their ultimate and devastating downfall.
Go to www.josiegoodbody.com to see images of some of the eggs we talk about
Read my short story of a missing Faberge Egg for @mywardrobehq here :https://bit.ly/3cLQZHz
Or Instagram @josiegoodbody
Sophie's book, Olga's Egg, is available on her website: www.sophielawconsultancy.com
Toby Faber's brilliant book Faberge's Eggs - is an encyclopedic history of these eggs and well worth reading: https://amzn.to/3cMmd13
Suzy Menkes's book on Royal Jewels: https://amzn.to/3wnBsoW
In this episode I speak with Diane-Sophie Lanselle, director of communications at Mellerio.
Mellerio is the oldest jeweller in the world which not only still exists, but remains in the same family as when it began almost five hundred years in the mid 1500s. In the early 1600s, Marie de Medici granted them the permission to sell their jewels in France and since that date, they have created jewels for every queen and empress, including of course Queen Marie Antoinette and Empress Josephine.
Nowadays Mellerio's jewels can still be seen in many of the collections of European Crown Jewels.
Please tune into discover how this remarkable family who, along with a chimney sweep, saved the life of the child King of France in 1613, to having a boutique on Rue de la Paix, full of ledgers describing the jewellery transactions of almost every aristocrat in France. Including one on the actual day that the Bastille was stormed - July 17th 1789!
@melleriojoaillier
@josiegoodbody
Podcast producer - Tom Jobling
