Preparing the Modern Meal: Urban Capitalism and Working-Class Food in Kenya's Port City (Ohio UP, 2025) is an urban history that connects town and country. Devin Smart examines how labor migrants who left subsistence food systems in Kenya’s rural communities acquired their daily meals when they arrived in the Indian Ocean city of Mombasa, a place where cash mediated access to daily necessities. In their rural homes, people grew their own food and created mealtimes and cuisines that fit into the environments and workday routines of their agrarian societies. However, in the city, migrants earned cash that they converted into food through commercial exchange, developing foodways within the spatial dynamics of urban capitalism. Thus, Smart considers how working-class formation and urbanization, central themes of modern world history, changed East Africa’s food systems.
Smart explores how these processes transformed domestic labor within migrant households, as demographic change and daily life in a capitalist city shaped the gendered dynamics of food provisioning and cooking. He also examines how urban capitalism in Mombasa, as elsewhere in the world, drove the expansion of eateries for working-class consumers. It focuses especially on street-food vendors who kept their overhead and prices low by operating on sidewalks, in alleyways, and along other open spaces in makeshift structures, where they fried, boiled, and grilled the meals that sustained working-class people in Kenya’s port city.
The history of street food also provides insights on the political economy of colonial and decolonizing African cities. Despite the services and income provided by street food, Mombasa officials also regularly pursued “modernization” campaigns to remove such informal businesses from the city’s landscape, fining and arresting vendors and demolishing their structures. Preparing the Modern Meal reveals the contradictions of such urban political economies from the colonial period to the more recent neoliberal era.
Devin Smart is an assistant professor of history at West Virginia University, where he teaches courses in African, European, and global history. His most recent articles have appeared in the Journal of African History and International Labor and Working-Class History, and his current research projects examine Kenya’s commercial fisheries as well as the energy transition that occurred in twentieth-century East Africa. He has two additional book projects underway, both of which address the relationship between environmental and economic change. Working the Water: Fishing and Extractivism in Twentieth-Century Kenya examines commercial fisheries as a particular kind of extractive industry, considering how these aquatic economies changed the region's lake, river, and marine environments. Dr. Smart's third book project, A Refined World: Energy Transitions in Modern East Africa, explores how different forms of energy, such as wood, coal, and petroleum, shaped daily life, the region's environments, and the political economy of colonialism and decolonization. Dr. Smart has also published articles on the history of tourism and economic development in Kenya in the African Studies Review, and on the politics of racial conflict in late-colonial Mombasa in the Journal of Eastern African Studies.
You can learn more about Dr. Smart’s work here
Afua Baafi Quarshie is a Ph.D. candidate in history at the Johns Hopkins University. Her research focuses on mothering and childhood in Ghana.
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