This episode recaps my arrival into South Africa from Mozambique. I get dropped off at the first big town Barberton over the border (I mention it was Komatipoort in the episode but I was incorrect) and am overwhelmed when I step into a supermarket and see wall to wall of overstocked shelves after 18 months of experiencing countries where they were lucky to have three items on a shelf. This was especially mind-blowing when the memories of a week ago when I had run out of food in Mozambique were still very fresh and raw. 

Within a week, I had managed to go from no money, food or water in a neighbouring country to having a job as a stable manager at the beautiful Hartfield Stables, near Diesploot, Midrand in Johannesburg. It felt a bit surreal. I describe how my daily life changed looking after and riding the horses and managing the staff. On my days off I only felt safe driving to Fourways Mall and parking my buccy (a utility) under security and watching a movie. I recall the time I had to get ambulance to the farm at night for a nearby stabbing and I sat like a sitting duck at the crossroads waiting for them to turn up and noticing they carried guns. Car hijacking is a major crime in South Africa and we lived close to a township with local shabeens. The only time I felt safe to park and go explore the surrounds was when I set off by car to Blyde River Canyon in the northern end of the Drakensberg range and I camped with the safety of the stable dog. I also visited God's Window, the Three Rondavels and Bourke's Luck Potholes and marvelled at the sheer beauty of the rock formations and vistas. 

My lessons include reflecting on my reaction to South Africa entering early 1995 when it was just coming out of the apartheid era and election riots were still occurring, especially in KwaZulu-Natal province. I had traversed the length of Africa wandering off in the middle of the night to drum beats, hitchhiking where needed, turning up in bizarre situations and experiencing so many amazing events, especially as a solo traveller.......but in South Africa I could not do it. I was not brave enough. I either thought my luck had been too good, or my intuition just warned me not to do it.  

I also reflect on my reaction to entering a fully-stocked supermarket after such a long period of living only on essentials and what was the only fare available through each country. I was shocked at the excess and the stark contrast between a rich and a poor African country. We may have only experienced shortages recently in the western world as a result of panic buying in covid. But this is reality to many poor countries and it is amazing  how simple it is to live when you are not spoilt for choice and you discover it is just over-indulgence.  

Photo: The Three Rondavels viewpoint at Blyde River Canyon, Drakensburg. Source: J.Murray