In this episode I leave Zanzibar and head to the Malawian border by boat, train, minivan and bicycle. There was a "no man's land" between Tanzania and Malawi of which you could walk or be "doubled" on a bike riding on the centre bar while the cyclist pedalled to the other side of Songwe River and the Malawian border post. I chose the cycle with another cyclist carrying my backpack. 

At the border post I was very short on funds and the border officer asked to see my money, the first time I had ever been asked. I was very nervous as I showed him by equivalent of $20 in local currency. He stared at me for awhile then suggested "I better hurry to get to the bank before it closed". I did not argue and was out of there as quick as I could. I got a lift with a truck driver to Chitimba on the shore of Lake Malawi. I stayed at a campsite owned by the driver who had abandoned us when the overland truck lost its brakes and crashed in West Africa (see Episode 13 for that story). However, while we reminisced about West Africa, the conversation was a bit strained. 

I then travelled to Livingstonia, an old missionary station on the highlands named after Dr Livingstone, a British explorer. It was founded by Dr Robert Laws, a disciple of David Livingstone after his third attempt to get away from the malarial zone down by the lake shores. I mention what I was told that this is where Stanley found Livingstone and said the famous saying "Dr Livingstone I presume?" However, this is not quite the case as that happened close by in Tanzania. However, Livingstonia, or Kondowe as it is called locally, was beautiful with the old colonial buildings and the views to the lake. See `https://www.malawitourism.com/regions/north-malawi/livingstonia-mission/ to read about the history of the mission.

I left Livingstonia and travelled to Llongwe, the capital of Malawi. While out wandering the town, I came across a political rally as protests from the May elections. The crowd was starting to get restless and build themselves into a frenzy so it was time to get out of there.  I noticed how intense it was and how people could change within the mob atmosphere. It reminded me of when I saw a young lad being chased by a mob through the markets after being accused of being a thief. They nearly caught him but he managed to escape over a fence but not before a bit of rough handling. It made me realise that you should never yell out "thief" in Africa for the small amounts they steal as the people will chase and seriously injure or even kill someone when they catch them with the mob mentality, and it is not worth someone's life.  `

I also reflect on my close brush with getting stuck at a border post. I could easily have been kept there as I did not have enough money to support myself. However, I just went with the flow, and things just turned out. Somehow I got out of that border post and picked up a lift as well. My positive outlook pulled me through yet again. I found it always allows you to see your way. 

The black market money-convertors were also a common occurrence to negotiate through any of the African border crossings. Even though it was illegal, they seemed to be tolerated as they exchanged money in the open. The rate was often better than the banks and you did not have to pay commission. Regardless, you had to be careful and keep your wits about you, know the exchange rate and what the new currency was worth, and it was an easy deal. Sometimes, even the banks dealt with and passed on counterfeit money so you had to be careful. However, this is all part of the challenge and adventure of overland travel. 

Photo: Old stone building that housed the missionaries, Livingstonia, Malawi (1994). Source: J Murray