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I’m just a surfer reading about surfing so you can listen to stories about surfing when you’re not surfing. Stay stoked!
S1E14: The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard
The Surfer’s Library
23 minutes
5 months ago
S1E14: The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard
Today Billy Jack reads The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long. In 1969 Greg Noll took off on one of the biggest waves ever at Makaha and nearly died in the process. After barely surviving the wipeout, he realized he’d pushed it as far as he could and decided to walk away from big-wave surfing for good. This is the story.
The Surfer’s Library
I’m just a surfer reading about surfing so you can listen to stories about surfing when you’re not surfing. Stay stoked!
