The Greg Noll Da Cat model surfboard is one of the most sought after surfboards of all time. One early first generation board sold for around $34,500, and even the 250 limited edition reissues made in the 1990s, hand signed by both Dora and Noll, are highly prized by collectors. Today, I’ll be reading four stories from Drew Kampion’s incredible book Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard. The selected stories are “The Greg Noll Da Cat Model,” “Me, Miki, and Da Cat,” “A Tale of Two Cats,” and “The Copy Cat.” There’s so much great material in this book, but I wanted to share these particular stories the highlighted Greg Noll’s relationship with Miki Dora and their collaboration on the legendary and much sought-after Da Cat surfboard models. The author of these stories, Drew Kampion has been a friend of the podcast since day one so please take the time to visit his website drewkampion.com. Just a reminder that if you want to help support the podcast you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so. It helps cover the cost of the podcasting platform fees needed to get the podcast out each month so any little bit helps.

Today Billy Jack reads the short story The Lost Coast from our friend Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf. This one is for all the surfers in the PNW.If you would like to help support the podcast you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so. It helps cover the cost of the podcasting platform fees needed to get the podcast out each month so any little bit helps.

Today’s episode marks our return to our short story format for the rest of this season. I’ve pulled from the surfer library bookshelf author Chris Ahrens book Joyrides; Surf Stories Volume Two. I’ve selected three of the many great stories to share with you today, The Relic, King of the Rendezvous Ballroom & The Preacher. I really love this book and I am so thankful Chris is letting me share this with you. This book as well as his others are available at his website: Perelandrapublishingcompany.com and Amazon.com.Also… if you want to help support the podcast you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so. It helps cover the cost of the podcasting platform fees needed to get the podcast out each month so any little bit helps.

This episode we wrap up our reading of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Chapters 47 through 51 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Chapters 39 through 46 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Chapters 35 through 38 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Chapters 31 through 34 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Chapters 27 through 30 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Chapters 22 through 26 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Billy Jack reads chapter 17 through 21 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Billy Jack is back this week reading from chapter 13 and continues through chapter 16 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Billy Jack picks up reading on chapter 8 and continues through chapter 12 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Billy Jack reads chapters 4 through 7 of Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Billy Jack kicks off summer 2026 and season 2 of the podcast reading Mike Hynson's autobiography: Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Michael Lear Hynson and Donna Klaasen Jost. This episode we read chapters one through three. Make sure you come back each episode as we are going to read the book in it's entirety by end of season. This book is available for purchase on Amazon.com.If you want to help support the podcast you can visit https://buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

Today Billy Jack reads The Last Wave by Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard from the book The Big Drop edited by John Long. In 1969 Greg Noll took off on one of the biggest waves ever at Makaha and nearly died in the process. After barely surviving the wipeout, he realized he’d pushed it as far as he could and decided to walk away from big-wave surfing for good. This is the story.

Today we wrap up part two in a supersized episode in which Billy reads the second half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. We pick up with Dewey Weber, Tubesteak Tracy and Miki Dora as they define the 50's surfer style... Enjoy!

Today in part one of a two part series Billy reads the first half of Chapter 3: Malibu Swing 1945 - late 1950s from Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing. The History of Surfing is a comprehensive and meticulously researched chronicle that explores surfing's evolution from its ancient Polynesian origins to its modern global presence. Richly illustrated with over 250 rare photographs, the book offers an authoritative and engaging narrative that delves into the cultural, historical, and technical aspects of the sport.

Today Billy continues reading from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha shares his experiences and adventures that significantly influenced and revolutionized surf culture. *Please forgive my haole pronunciations of the Hawaiian language.

Today Billy reads from ​Francine Park Palama's book: The Last of the Golden Years in Surfing: Stories by Waterman Conrad Louis Canha. The book is a collection of stories by legendary surfer Conrad Louis Canha, who is credited with founding the "Hot-Dog" style of surfing. In this book, Canha shares his experiences and adventures that significantly influenced and revolutionized surf culture.