With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Sherpa, Terray Sylvester, Madison Mountaineering lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11.
Only a few teams remain on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemental oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers Jan Polacek, Lenka Polackova, and Pakistani Sohail Sakhi. French climber Charles Page, guided by Vinajak Malla, was last reported at 7661 m/25,134 feet, higher than the elevation of traditional Camp 4 of 25,080'/7600m as of August 11, 2:00 a.m. local time per his Inreach.
Regardless of classification, they must work together to set the ropes, break the trail, and reach the summit. Then, they must descend, which might be one of the riskiest in recent history. Remaining teams include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, and Elete Expeditions. As of yesterday, the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. With Page's report, they are obviously higher now as they are on their summit push. Teams expect to summit on Monday, August 11.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/10/k2-2025-coverage-risk-taking-case-study/
After almost five weeks, a weather window long enough for a summit attempt on K2 has emerged. Most teams and many individuals have left, but an estimated (very rough guess) that 20-30 total people, split equally between commercial and independent climbers, remain for the summit push starting today, August 5th, 2025. #k2025
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/08/05/k2-2025-coverage-k2-summit-push-on/
Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber, Lukas Supergan: "... This could be achieved by a large, combined team from agencies and independent climbers working together. However, such cooperation is completely lacking. Leaders keep their plans secret."
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/25/k2-2025-coverage-weather-stalls-plans-or-not/
Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Baltoro Glacier. #K2025
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/20/k2-2025-coverage-death-summits-and-progress/
Teams are finally progressing across the four northernmost 8000-meter peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Multiple teams report reaching as high as Camp 3 on these peaks, thus setting an optimistic tone for summits this season.
Although rockfall remains a clear and present danger, leaders feel more comfortable after recent snowfalls. However, climbers still need to be thoughtful and cautious about avalanche danger, as shown by the rescue of a stranded and injured Polish climber. Today, I discussed the conditions with Garrett Madison, the founder of Madison Mountaineering, who has a team on K2 for a summit but also on a mountain trash clean-up mission.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/14/k2-2025-coverage-climbing-in-peril/
The Karakorum's drought continues due to the low snowfall from Spring combined with warmer-than-normal temperatures; thus, rockfall is a real danger on K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and the Gasherbrums. Ryan Mitchell and his K2 team are acclimatizing on a nearby unclimbed peak, hoping for snow in the next two weeks. They're doing well, but patience will be tested this year on all the mountains. I discussed the hot weather with meteorologist Chris Tomer.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/08/k2-2025-coverage-dry-hot-and-rockfall/
Teams are arriving at K2 Base Camp, but communications are limited, so not much information is coming out. We know that conditions are harsh, with high temperatures and low snow in the lower mountains. Given the absence of snow, climbers are concerned about rockfall this year.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/07/03/k2-2025-coverage-teams-at-bc-and-trekking-first-summits-2/
NOTE: This Podcast has extensive pictures so best viewed instead of listened to.
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, has gained considerable recognition thanks to his impressive video documentation of his 2024 summit of Mt. Everest with Madison Mountaineering. Exciting news! He’s all set to leave for K2 on Saturday, June 21, 2025.
You may recall that in December 2022, Ryan contacted me for guidance and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2023. He was new to climbing, so I advised him that while many companies would happily take his money to get him to Everest, the better choice would be to wait at least a year to develop the skills and experience needed for a safe attempt on the world's highest peak. He took my advice to heart, worked hard, honed his skills on the volcanoes of Ecuador, then Denali, and Aconcagua, and ultimately performed magnificently on Everest.
Since then, he has moved from Massachusetts to the Seattle, Washington area, fully embracing the sport of mountaineering. He continues his success with a new YouTube channel where he shares his climbing adventures and prepares for his ascent of K2.
In this podcast, we discuss his training, why he chose K2, and walk through the stages of his exciting climb, using pictures from my 2014 climb as well as his training adventures. Also, I've added at the end my video documentary of my 2014 summit climb.
I know you will enjoy this.
You can follow him on his social media:
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/17/k2-podcast-with-ryan-mitchell-preparing-for-k2/?preview=true
The 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity.
Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made a near-solo ascent (she summited the same day as 30 other people), unsupported, setting a record. This is something we often overlook in our fast-paced social media world. The overall summit count for both sides of Everest in 2025 is estimated to be around 846, including support climbers such as Sherpas, Tibetans, and Guides. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2025
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/06/11/everest-2025-season-summary/
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
What a week on Everest! We had both regular and unique summits, some of which may have unintended consequences for years to come. On the other 8000ers, the season came to a close with a few inspiring stories. The action is not over quite yet, even with an impending storm threatening to close the Icefall early next week, but allowing the remaining Tibetan side teams to summit a deserted peak. A narrative on descending from the summit of Everest and returning home with lessons from the mountain. #everest2025https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/25/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-25-season-ending-soon/
Blustery conditions stalled most summit attempts last week, but a few teams managed to reach the summit, bringing the total number of Everest summits to over 200. May 14th, 15th and 18th, 2025, were big days on Everest despite the strong winds on the first two. And today, May 18th, we saw more Nepal side summits and the first commercial team summit on the Tibetan side.
Hundreds more are staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.
Meteorologists have told leaders to expect a decent weather window starting any day now. At least two climbers have died on the Nepal side, with more rescues or sick, abandoning their bids. In other words, a regular season on Mt. Everest. A narrative of going to the "Top of the World."
Estimates vary, but at least 129 people summited Everest today, May 18th, on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, bringing the total to around 275, with 119 members supported by 156 Sherpas or support climbers. This results in a client-to-support ratio of 1:3. With an estimated 446 foreign permits issued by Nepal and a dropout rate of approximately 40%, there are likely around 150 clients or members remaining to summit on the Nepal side. Many are already staged for their attempts, spread from Camp 2 to the South Col, or Camp 4.Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/18/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-18-summit-summits-and-preventable-deaths/
Summit, Forest, summit! With decent weather, climbers took full advantage of summiting four of the 8000ers, including the first Everest summits, with more teams on their way this season. One person attempted to set a speed record on Everest.
The fixed line is to the summit of Lhotse and the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest. 8K Expeditions did an excellent job of being dedicated and patient with high winds. With 456 Everest and 107 Lhotse permits issued, look for summits daily as the winds allow. And, a narrative on climbing to the South Col and preparing for the summit bid.Each weekend during the season,
I post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week, what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/11/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-11-summit-summits-and-more-summits/
The last few days of low winds have allowed the rope fixing teams to make excellent progress. The rope team from 8K Expeditions summited Lhotse this afternoon, May 8, 2025, marking the first summits of the year. A separate team from 8K will summit Everest tomorrow. This opens the season to the plethora of climbers already staged at Camp 2, just waiting for this event.
The Tibetan rope-fixing team has reached 7900 meters or higher on the Tibetan side. I anticipate they will summit over the weekend.
Also, a narrative on the anticipation of summiting. #everest2025
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/08/everest-2025-lhotse-summits-everest-soon-anticipation/
Poor weather is delaying getting the fixed ropes to Everest's summit on both sides but is looking better. The Nepal side Everest permits have reached 444, with more permits issued each day. EverestER has seen over 400 patients thus far. Some teams have completed their acclimatization protocols while others haven't started. An interesting season to be sure! Also a narrative on climbing From Camp 1 in the Western Cwm to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.
Each weekend during the season, I'll post a "Weekend Update" summarizing the main stories from the past week what to expect next, and more posts whenever there is meaningful news. #everest2025
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/05/04/everest-2025-weekend-update-may-4-waiting-on-the-ropes/
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Drone crash, Icefall collapse, ropes to Camp 3, and climbers tag Camp 2. 374 Everest permits thus far, but only 48 on the Tibet side. It's been a busy week on Everest.
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/27/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-27-on-the-move/
The 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It's a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short narrative on the puja ceremony.
This may go down as the season of stunts, pleasing those who have called Everest a circus for years. Game on! #everest2025
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/20/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-basecamp-sprawl/
As I previously reported, two Sherpas lost their lives when struck by an avalanche on the 8000er, Annapurna, on April 7, 2025. Ngima Tashi and Rima Rinje were swept into a deep crevasse between Camps 2 and 3. Four days later, Sherpas located their bodies using RECCO reflective technology after several helicopter searches proved unsuccessful. Retrieval was not attempted due to the bodies being inside a deep crevasse and the ongoing avalanche danger.
In the Podcast are multiple still images from his climb, plus a video of the actual avalanche taken by John.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
#annapurna2025 #everest2025
It was a tough week in the Himalayas. We saw summits on two 8000ers, two Sherpas died, and the Icefall Doctors finally got the route to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall. Also, it feels like the early predictions of a record and crowded Nepal side are coming true, with more permits issued at this time than last year. #everest2025
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/13/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-13-icefall-in-summits-and-deaths/
Despite ominous weather and route conditions, various media reports have at least four climbers summiting Annapurna on Sunday, April 6, 2025. Early reports of disturbing conditions on Annapurna seem to be mirrored on Everest. The Kumbu is buzzing with activity, and the Icefall Doctors are struggling again this year to get the route through the Icefall. In other words, busy as usual in the mid-2020s. #everest2025
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/04/06/everest-2025-weekend-update-april-6-1st-8000er-summits/
Early data suggest Everest will see a record year, primarily driven by Chinese and Indian clients. I won’t be surprised to see over 1,000 total summits from both sides. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. Sherpas are setting up Base Camp, which is starting to look like a small city.
The Himalayan winter was warm and dry, causing the snow line on Everest to move higher and increasing the chances of rockfall. Climbers need to be very aware and stay safe this season. #everest2025
