This week on The Go-To Food Podcast, we sit down with David Ellis—restaurant critic and Going Out editor at The London Standard, and the man who inherited Fay Maschler’s legendary column.

Recorded at The Orange in Pimlico (a place David knows but has never reviewed), this episode is a no-holds-barred look at the realities of restaurant criticism—from the dishes that blew his mind to the meals that nearly broke him.

David talks about the awkwardness of replacing Jimmy Famurewa, why the pressure to be first in print still matters, breaks down what makes a five-star review, reveals why overhyped sandwich shops drive him mad (except Max’s), and explains why he just can’t recommend the River Cafe even though everyone else says it’s iconic.

We dive into the state of London’s dining scene today, and why it's become safer, more cautious, and—frankly—more boring. As he sees it, too many places are playing to formulas, not passion. There’s a creeping sameness to rotisserie chicken joints and bistros built to emulate proven hits like Josephine or Bouchon Racine. His feelings are just as strong when it comes to the nostalgia-fuelled revival of traditional pie and mash shops. Despite their place in London’s history, he found the food itself diabolical, even after following the exact rituals—ordering properly, adding the chili vinegar—he still left wondering why these places deserve saving at all.

He also shares his favorite meals of all time, from Pierre Koffmann’s legendary pig’s trotter to the surprise brilliance of sweetbreads at The Ritz, and a melon-sorbet combo that rewired his brain. Plus: the ice cream in St Ives, the secret market spots in Portugal, and the weekend food escapes he always dreams about.

Smart, sharp, and unsparingly honest, this is David Ellis exactly as you want him—funny, thoughtful, and completely unfiltered.

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