From JP Morgan spreadsheets to hand-picking olive oil in Crete, Andreas Labridis has built a modern Greek food empire in London — and he’s only just getting started. In this fascinating conversation, the Opso and Kima co-founder recalls the wild early days of Opso, when guests would come expecting smashed plates and Zorba music, and how he set out to show the city what modern Greek dining could truly be. He shares the thinking behind Kima’s fin-to-gill philosophy, a bold approach to seafood that uses every possible part of the fish to create dishes that are as sustainable as they are delicious.

Andreas explains how a gamble on Greek brunch — complete with house-made pastries, breads, and the now-legendary bugatza — turned into queues snaking around the block, and why he’s on a mission to introduce Londoners to Greece’s winter cuisine, from rich stews to mountain game. He speaks candidly about the behind-the-scenes reality of running restaurants under London’s punishing tax and cost pressures, revealing just how tight the margins can be even for a thriving group.

We also travel with him back to Athens, where he shares his favourite culinary gems — the places locals really go — and the wave of young chefs reshaping the city’s food scene. Along the way, there are stories of nightmare service days, quirky customer encounters, and the chef partnerships that have helped fuel his success. Andreas also lets loose on food fads (including his pet hate for putting caviar on everything) and pays homage to a Hall-of-Fame dish of snails with rye, bacon and pesto that blew his mind.

If this episode leaves you hungry, book a table at Opso for modern Greek brilliance, or cross the street to Kima for a sustainable seafood experience unlike any other. And for a taste of their genius at home, pick up the Opso cookbook, Modern Greek Food — the next best thing to being there.

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