A question we get asked a lot by injured climbers, is wether nutrition can help speed ut their recovery. And, if so, can it also help them not to get injured again? As these questions are a bit out of our scope of practice, we've invited nutritionist and climber Ed Gibson-Smith on the show to help answer these questions and more. We discuss nutrition in a broader sense, as in if you have enough energy available, and in a narrower perspective, such as if collagen supplementation actually...

As clinician we see a lot of climbers with shoulder complaints, both on the recreational and elite level. Together with renowned physiotherapist Paul Houghoghi - aka The Climbing Physio - we explore the rise of shoulder complaints and injuries in climbing and how we go about trying to both prevent and rehabilitate them. It was a very interesting discussion, where we all could get our geeks on as we talked about different types of shoulder injuries, sport specific rehab and the different facto...

In episode 4 of The Climbing Injury Podcast we discussed different conditions concerning the elbow which you might encounter as a climber. In this episode we brought on board Dr Tyler Nelson, a climber, chiropractor and S&C coach from USA, to dive even deeper into elbow issues and climbing. Tyler is a well known figure from social media, where he runs the platform C4HP. His instagram and YouTube channel are great resources for both climbers and health care professionals working with climb...

In today's episode, we're discussing wrist injuries and wrist related pain due to climbing. We often meet patients worried that they've injured their TFCC (more on this in the episode), which can be a serious injury. But this is quite rare, and there are other more common causes and sources to a climber's wrist pain than just the TFCC. This is also highlighted in a recent paper by Schöffl and colleagues (article here: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37800447/). We discuss different injur...

Today we’re discussing hamstring injuries. We frequently see injuries to the hamstring muscles and tendons due to heel hooks and splits, and whilst hamstring injuries have gotten a lot of attention in other sports, like soccer, sprint and dancing, there’s a paucity of literature covering this injury in climbers. Since climbing differs from these sports, the injury mechanisms, rehabilitation and exercise selection also differs. Today’s talk will cover these subjects, as well as we’ve inte...

As climbing's increasing popularity attracts more and more people to the sport, it also attracts more and more young climbers. This is of course positive, but also makes for an understanding of the more specific injuries that youth climbers are exposed to. In this episode we'll discuss how and when the growing skeleton matures, and why this is important knowledge for everyone involved in youth climbing. We'll discuss growth plates and injuries to these - called epiphyseal stress fractures. Si...

Although less common than finger and shoulder injuries, we see a fair bit of painful elbows in climbers. Today, we discuss elbow pain on the inside (medial), outside (lateral) and front (anterior) of the elbow. What's actually going on here? How do these develop into painful conditions? And, of course, how can we manage them?References:- van Middelkoop M, Bruens ML, Coert JH, Selles RW, Verhagen E, Bierma-Zeinstra SM, Koes BW. Incidence and Risk Factors for Upper Ext...

After two long episodes on pulley injuries, we wanted to discuss the somewhat lesser known finger injuries. These include flexor tendon tenosynovitis, finger joint pain/synovitis, flexor tendon strains and lumbrical shift syndrome. We discuss how to diagnose and manage these conditions both as health care professionals and as climbers. We also follow up on Stian's A4-rupture and how he has progressed the past month. References: A Life Dedicated to Climbing and Its Sequelae in t...

In this episode we deep dive into how to rehabilitate pulley injuries. Since Stian managed to rupture his A4 pulley whilst bouldering in Fontainebleau, you'll get a real time insight into his rehabilitation process while we discuss the different approaches and concepts to best handle these injuries. Should we immobilize or load early? Should we climb or not? Which are the different ways of loading in a controlled way? We're also joined by pro climbers Tom Randall and Molly Thompson-Smith, and...

Welcome to the world premiere of the Climbing Injury Podcast. In this episode we want to present ourselves and what this podcast is all about. We chat about how and why we started talking to begin with, Stian’s recent trip to Sheffield with Magnus Midtbø and Adam Ondra before we get our geek on and discuss pulley injuries. This episode is dedicated to what pulleys are, injury classification and diagnosing pulley injuries. The follow-up will then obviously be about rehabilitation. Fe...