Everyone's always looking for the "perfect waves" to have fun in the water. And yes, there is a balance to be found but too many people skip average waves because " they can't surf on it well".
This way people always get stuck in the need to shoulder high clean, soft waves and never progress past it.
(00:00 )Why it's a problem to only learn to surf in perfect waves in Bali / Sri Lanka
(04:15) Predicting how waves start to break
(06:32) Surfing is thinking one step ahead
(07:00) How weak waves teaches you how to generate speed
(07:45) Wanna surf good in shitty waves? Or shitty in good waves?
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Website: https://iampepijn.nl
Online coaching program - Surf Academy Pro: https://www.surfacademypro.com/