Tenuta di Arceno is situated just north east of Siena and south of Florence in the Municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga in the Chianti Classico region. The area is picture book Tuscany with rows of vines, orchards and a relentless daubing of Cyprus trees completing every perspective of the landscape.

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We are in Sangiovese country but as with all things modern, diversification is much in evidence and Cabernet Franc is flourishing, as well as more expected varieties as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In my interview with winemaker Lawrence Cronin, we discuss how Arceno is working with these varieties in the face of advancing climatic pressures.

The estate of Tenuta di Arceno was among the first vineyards purchased by Jess Jackson and Barbara Bank outside of the United States. Their portfolio today is enormous and there is an embedded consciousness across the business for taking decisive action on climate change and respecting nature. Despite this broader international perspective, I get the impression from the team that I meet that they work with a great deal of autonomy to achieve the best they can from learning and experience.

We check into our apartment in San Gusmé, a tiny village a few kilometres from the winery but with blocks of vines stretching away both steeply upwards to the right and more gently downwards to the left.

Standing in front of the main entrance to the small walled village that has a natural elevation from which to survey the vista, there is a warm breeze blowing a mixed scent of the rich curated landscape across our senses. There is a hypnotic and seductive calm, especially now that I have learned of a local vermouth that promises to gently knead away the tensions incurred by the long drive from Liguria.

Before aperitivo, we walk the circumference of the tiny walled town. On the outside of the walls, erected in the 14th century to defend against mercenaries, there is the stone carving of a man in squat position obviously relieving himself, apparently to alert the townspeople where best to defecate so that the waste can be reused as fertiliser (no longer compulsory).