The Mediterranean’s hush turns cinematic when your balcony faces black water and a smoking volcano. On Halloween in Sicily, we climbed Mount Etna’s flanks to a world of ash, fog, and scarlet leaves, then watched a sky switch from calm to chaos as a sudden storm flooded the streets and sent us sprinting for the coach. Between the thunder’s split-second crack and the laugh we needed afterward, this trip gave us one of those perfect, messy days that become legend. We unpack the whole ride: wine...