The first thing that strikes me about Sandy Ryan is his humility. He’s a self-confessed water addict, in particular for surfing massive waves.

Well known on Phillip Island and to surfers around the world as a big wave surfer, Sandy’s always been drawn to a great surf break. In his humble style, he’s uncomfortable to put a size on the waves (but confesses they’d be up to 60 feet high). You see, to Sandy, it’s not about the height of the wave, it’s about the lived experience.

So without even dipping a toe in the water, I had a chance to hear first-hand what it’s actually like to be out there - as the adrenalin kicks in, and the jet-ski whiplashes you onto a big wave. He tells us what happens next.