In this episode I chat with Juliet Hammer and her dog Addy. Juliet is a climbing coach and an experienced boulderer and sport climber. She has a degree in biology and she's a certified strength and conditioning specialist. We talked about: Juliet's climbing history Differences between bouldering and sport in terms of preparation, mindset and tactics Being a short climber Board climbing Coaching philosophy and shop talk Personal grades Social media, content creation and voluntary hardship Value capture as both a coach and climber Dangers of focusing on dopamine hits 00:00:00 Intro00:02:43 Juliet's sport/bouldering identity & seasonality00:16:02 Proper introduction, comp/cordo climbing, coaching indoors vs outdoor clients00:25:27 Board climbing & being a short climber00:30:31 Strength training00:37:27 Coaching philosophy and shop talk00:48:07 More short climber tips, self-comparison00:54:43 Personal grades and the toxic wasteland of 8a.nu01:00:41 Motivations01:02:38 Jesse is ignorant about the southeast and complains about summer01:05:51 More seasonality / sport & boulder logistics questions01:08:08 Hot take 1, is climbing harder always more fun?01:12:28 Hot take 2, are sport climbers better climbers?01:13:56 Sport climbing vs bouldering popularity and value for progression01:16:37 Content strategy and value capture as a content creator and coach01:26:33 Dopamine hits, voluntary hardship, video beta and availability bias01:42:55 Addy01:45:09 Work with Juliet