This week, we diving back into the monumental shifts shaking up two of fashion's most revered houses: Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten.

Join us as we explore the seismic departure of theatrical genius John Galliano from Maison Margiela after a transformative ten-year tenure, departing in December 2024. We'll discuss his breathtaking creativity, particularly through the "Artisanal" couture collections, and how he masterfully fused his narrative-driven design with the brand's codes, leaving an indelible mark and boosting revenue and cultural relevance.

His final Spring 2024 Artisanal show was a viral phenomenon, celebrated for its "porcelain doll" makeup and captivating walks.

Then, we look to the future with Glenn Martens, the highly respected Belgian designer and a graduate of the same institution as founder Martin Margiela.

Martens' appointment, announced in January 2025, is seen as a return to the brand's Belgian avant-garde roots, aligning with his philosophy of deconstruction and twisting wardrobe archetypes. The industry has received this news with great excitement, viewing Martens as a "couturier" capable of building upon Galliano's success.

Next, we turn to the more personal and long-planned transition at Dries Van Noten, where the legendary founder bids farewell after nearly four decades.

His legacy is one of poeticism, intelligence, and unparalleled mastery of color, print, and texture, cultivated through emotionally resonant collections that eschewed fleeting trends. His final collection was the Men's Spring/Summer 2025 show.

We unpack the nuanced reception to the post-Dries era, from the respectful yet reverential 'atelier collections' for Women's Spring/Summer 2025 that followed his final bow. While appreciated as a heartfelt homage, some critics felt they lacked a clear, forward-looking vision, noting "too many references spoil the broth".

This contrasts with the praised official debut of new Creative Director Julian Klausner for Autumn/Winter 2025, who had joined the company in 2018 and worked closely with Van Noten. Klausner was lauded for delivering the brand's signature mix of "fantasy and restraint, but with a freer hand and bodily sensuality," reassuring the industry that the brand was ready to evolve and thrive.

Finally, we ponder the tantalizing mystery of John Galliano's next act, as the industry speculates on where this master storyteller will go after his enigmatic departure from Maison Margiela, with no official announcement made yet.