Be inspired and learn from insiders of the climbing industry. We interview routesetters, coaches, managers of gyms and brands, and legendary figures from our sport.
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Be inspired and learn from insiders of the climbing industry. We interview routesetters, coaches, managers of gyms and brands, and legendary figures from our sport.
On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen sits down with Nickolas Gagliardi to get us thinking about USAC events as routesetters gear up for the upcoming youth competition season.
Nick started setting in 2015 in St. Paul, Minnesota. While that beginning was only ten years ago, Nick experienced the industry when many setters were still getting paid by the route and boulder, specifically: $7 a boulder, $11 a top-rope route, $15 a lead route and $26 for setting the roof. From there, Nick moved to Colorado where he set at the Earth Treks gyms—now Movement—before he finally landed in Portland, Oregon. Now, Nick is a USAC Level 3 routesetter and the Director of Setting at Portland Rock Gym. When he’s not setting, Nick is often climbing outdoors, playing video games, and trying to get better at Go.
General Topics Covered
The history of Portland Rock Gym’s Beaverton location, designed with setters and competitions in mind
Key elements of a competition-ready gym
Communicating with members about hosting USAC competitions
Preparing to host Youth Nationals
Lessons learned from hosting Youth Nationals—and what could be done differently next time
Managing relationships between in-house and guest setters
Setting novice routesetters up for success in their first competition
Professional development opportunities for experienced competition setters
Show Notes
Find Nick Gagliardi on Instagram
Portland Rock Gym
2025 Youth National Championships at the Portland Rock Gym, Beaverton
USA Climbing Routesetters
USAC Boulder QE Setting Guidelines and Top Rope/Lead Guidelines
USAC Rulebook
You’re Stronger if You’re Honest: Behind the Wrench With Abby Wilson
More: other episodes of The Impact Driver Podcast that look at competition team dynamics:
Setting the Tone: What Makes a Space Feel Good? – CBJ Podcast with Jesse Safford
No One Sets Alone: Collective Authorship – CBJ Podcast with Ruth Jang
“You Can Strip My Boulder.” – CBJ Podcast with Blake Green
Closing Notes
If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out.
The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Kilter and Bold Climbing. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.
Climbing Business Journal Podcasts
Be inspired and learn from insiders of the climbing industry. We interview routesetters, coaches, managers of gyms and brands, and legendary figures from our sport.