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Be inspired and learn from insiders of the climbing industry. We interview routesetters, coaches, managers of gyms and brands, and legendary figures from our sport.
Balancing Art and Functionality in Hold Shaping – Joey Jannsen
Climbing Business Journal Podcasts
1 hour 29 minutes 48 seconds
4 months ago
Balancing Art and Functionality in Hold Shaping – Joey Jannsen
Joey is the co-founder and owner of his own hold company, called Ocelot Grips, out of Oregon. But Ocelot Grips is the end product, or at least the current end, of many, many years of Joey working in the industry as a hold shaper. He has designed and shaped holds for a lot of different brands over the years. He gets into his story in more detail in this episode, but he also offers some fascinating insights on his artistic philosophy for shapes and how that works in conjunction with his philosophy for functionality in shapes. Because hold shaping is like routesetting in that sense; it’s partially an artistic craft as well as a utilitarian or commercial craft. Art, commerce, functionality—it's all wrapped up in the life of a hold shaper. And, as a longtime shaper and setter, Joey is a great guest for riffing on all of those finer points of the craft.
General Topics Covered
Introduction and Industry Status
Joey's Background and Entry into Climbing
Oregon's Significance to Hold Shaping
Hold Design Philosophy and Learning Experiences
Aesthetics vs. Function in Hold Design
Founding Ocelot Grips
Current Work and Future Plans
Show Notes
Ocelot Grips
Ocelot Grips Instagram: @ocelotgrips
Thank you EP Climbing and Rock Gym Pro for your support!And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!
Climbing Business Journal Podcasts
Be inspired and learn from insiders of the climbing industry. We interview routesetters, coaches, managers of gyms and brands, and legendary figures from our sport.