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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
Dave
29 episodes
4 days ago
Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.
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Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.
Show more...
Personal Journals
Society & Culture
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28 - Tipping Point
A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
17 minutes 23 seconds
4 days ago
28 - Tipping Point

Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both were tests I'd have to face on my own.

A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.