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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
Dave
29 episodes
5 days ago
Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.
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Personal Journals
Society & Culture
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All content for A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves is the property of Dave and is served directly from their servers with no modification, redirects, or rehosting. The podcast is not affiliated with or endorsed by Podjoint in any way.
Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.
Show more...
Personal Journals
Society & Culture
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10 - The Rollercoaster
A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
7 minutes 44 seconds
4 months ago
10 - The Rollercoaster

I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to "paper" before I lost the feeling.


To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-rollercoaster/

A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.